OPINION

OPINION: Ding dong merrily on high?

Cake dreams: Ayesha Kalaji of the Queen of Cups knows Christmas is a big deal
Cake dreams: Ayesha Kalaji of the Queen of Cups knows Christmas is a big deal
Let me set the scene for you.

I’m sat at my desk. It’s an unusually warm September afternoon, the kind that is perfect for a drink in a favourite beer garden or an end of summer barbecue with friends, the sun is streaming in through the window, casting a warm, hazy glow over me, while my cat lies in a sunny puddle, rumbling away contentedly.

It is an idyllic, lazy, afternoon. Yet I am holding my head in my hands, the look of a stressed chef plastered across my face. Why, you may ask?

Christmas.

That time of year is upon us again. As swiftly as the buzzing summer – with its tourist trade and countless, constant customers – passes, the festive season is upon us.

Brits love a Christmas party

Am I ready to deck the halls? No. I haven’t even considered getting my winter coat out yet let alone remember where I stored the baubles. But I am going to pass on what little wisdom I have as the festive season creeps closer.

Most restaurants and pubs make 25% of their annual income in December. Despite the daunting news of energy caps and austere winters, we must remember that the great British public loves a good Christmas party. Crackers, crowns and terrible jokes are woven into the fabric of our society every December. But just saying ‘we have a Christmas menu’ is not enough anymore.

It is not news that the past few years have been hard for our industry. We have had to compete with pandemics, rising costs in every department and staff shortages to start with. Do not even mention energy costs to me. Quite a daunting landscape.

It is not all bad news though. Inflation in the foodservice industry has fallen since August, the increase in costs is continued, but slowing. We have proven we can adapt and survive in the face of adversity. Now we must brace ourselves to do it again, but with tinsel on top.

So here I am, in my leopard print Santa hat thinking about how to tackle this. I have noticed that, as many venues close their doors, it has been essential to try to stand out among the pack. Being different has always benefited me. This has meant, in a sea of generic turkey lunches (side note, I do love a roast turkey lunch), I have tried to create a menu that is a little different. This may pose some risks but, thankfully, as my food offering is modern Middle Eastern, I have room to be creative with my menu.

Staying unapologetically true

Yet I cannot help but worry. Will people want my guinea fowls with kammouneh spice, dates and chestnuts? Is this the year to introduce a mulled cider with orange blossom? I must go with my guts. Staying unapologetically true to myself has always been the right decision.   

Not to mention the rise in large group bookings. They happen all year round but in the festive season they multiply. I run a pretty slick service but adding a second menu for large groups to run simultaneously does add pressure to an already busy kitchen.

Making a menu that is feasible for the staff to prepare and serve seamlessly is an important facet to consider when designing a menu. I learnt this the hard way with a turkey wellington two years ago… make it achievable.

I’ve also had to look at new ways to advertise. We recently updated our website, expanded our social media offerings and we are already reaching out to as many new and old customers as possible.

We are all desperate to survive but we must stay positive and ready to adapt. Christmas chameleons if you will. I hope we can all have a celebratory drink together in the new year.

Bonne chance mes amies, and I’ll see you on the other side.

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