Pub chef opinion: Customers expect the best local ingredients
My appointment coincided with the re-opening of the 13th-century inn after an investment by St Austell Brewery of more than £1.8m. As well as my in-house position, I was also brought in to oversee general menu development to ensure standards are consistent across the brewery’s managed pub estate in Devon.
Before the Three Crowns closed for its refurbishment programme, the inn had an excellent reputation with locals and visitors alike for its food.
The relaunch has given me the opportunity to be experimental with the new menu, while still satisfying the needs of our loyal customers.
As well as a set menu that changes seasonally we also offer a selection of weekly specials. More commonly, this has increased to daily specials to ensure we can offer diners the freshest, most seasonal dishes.
That said, the menu does have to cater for everyone. Given our location on the edge of Dartmoor we get a lot of passing trade from walkers wanting to grab a quick bite to eat. In the evening, this shifts to a clientele wishing to take a bit more time to savour the dishes on offer.
In any quality, self-assured pub, long gone are the days of chicken in a basket. Today diners are much more aware about what quality food really means and that has in turn meant that expectations and standards continually rise.
Quality dishes cooked with ingredients sourced locally really are a given in my opinion. It’s something that the majority of guests expect and it’s no longer a privilege they’re willing to pay more for. Fortunately, a local sourcing policy is a sentiment echoed by St Austell Brewery across its estate of more than 170 pubs in the south-west.
Here at the Three Crowns we’re fortunate to have an array of fine local producers from which to select our ingredients. In the village of Chagford we’re able to work with the local butcher to source our meats, including Dartmoor venison. With the south Devon coast only a few miles away, we’re lucky to be able to include lobsters caught locally, as a gourmet choice on the specials board.
It’s definitely an exciting time to be part of the pub food industry and I continue to relish both the challenges and opportunities that come with it.
Peter Hingston is executive head chef of the Three Crowns in Chagford, Devon