Marco Pierre White slams expensive gastro pubs

Leading chef Marco Pierre White has slammed expensive gastro pubs for failing to deliver, in an exclusive interview with The Publican​.

The pub lover who is launching his own beer with Manchester brewer JW Lees said part of his success has been evolving his own pubs into "restaurants that serve a pint".

"Of course you have to respect tradition, but we've all seen what's happening to pubs closing all over the country - so they need to change with the times," he said.

He said the key for pubs is to "create a package including food" but that he is unimpressed with expensive 'gastro pubs".

"Gastro pubs don't really deliver - the only thing they deliver is a massive bill. When I'm at a pub I want a nice steak and ale pie."

White was speaking ahead of the launch of his 3.8 per cent ale 'Governor' at his London restaurant Wheeler's of St James's next week.

The restaurateur said he chose regional brewer JW Lees because he wanted to work with "a proper brewery, not one owned by a large conglomerate".

"There are lots of very good pints out there and a pint is something that's very personal - it's like making the perfect sauce," he said.

The chef, who said his favourite brews include efforts by Black Sheep, Adnams and Timothy Taylor, described the Governor as "full of flavour".

The name of the ale itself comes from White's father's dog - a greyhound which had success on unregulated circuits.

White, who designed the label for the beer himself, said: "It's a great honour to have the chance to give people great pleasure."

The Grovernor - 'a proper English pint'

And William Lees-Jones, managing director of JW Lees brewery, described the ale and the thought behind it. He said: "We're both northerners, and wanted to create something that's very British. It is a traditional ale made from British ingredients - it's quite malty and quite northern - it's a proper English pint."

He said that they were still trialling recipes, but that the Governor would be available in cask and in bottles from around March.

And Lees-Jones said White was "an absolute joy to work with".

"He's very passionate about even the smallest things, like making his chips perfect," he said, "But he's got to be a little bit more patient - brewing doesn't happen as quickly as whacking a soufflé in the oven."

It looks like they will be in it for the long haul too: "We would never go into anything short-term," said Lees-Jones.