Focus South East: the Swan's Song

SO WHEN is a pub not a pub? By most standards, the Swan at West Malling, Kent, has made the leap.

Over the past eight years, the 15th-century coaching inn has been transformed from a fairly standard village pub into a Michelin-listed brasserie which is at the heart of a burgeoning food empire built around fresh, local produce.

The company behind the Swan, Fishbone, acquired the freehold of the business in 2000. Managing director Peter Cornwell accepts that most customers, whether from West Malling or beyond, no longer think about it in standard pub terms. But as he says: "I think there are things we do well here that pubs could pick up on, especially in the current climate."

Following an initial £1.1m conversion, which has combined contemporary wood, granite and stainless steel with the building's 500-year-old original and restored features, reinvestment has been

a key priority. The Swan's interior has just been upgraded for a second time, with a new VIP lounge being opened this month. And undeterred by last year's wettest summer on record, £50,000 has been spent on a new al fresco dining area.

Peter says: "By creating an outdoor dining area we have been able to add another 80 or more covers to the restaurant, while taking the pressure off the main kitchen with the creation of an outdoor cooking facility.

"We feel this is the way ahead during the summer season as people seek a more Continental lifestyle, and expect diners to enjoy being transported to the Mediterranean for a few hours, while still being able to sample the very best of seasonal and regional British cuisine from the menu."

So where does Peter see mainstream pubs picking up on the Swan's example? "Firstly, our reputation for serving consistently excellent food using fresh, regional ingredients, and, secondly, our first-class service from a highly trained and professional team," he says.

The team has expanded recently with the appointment of Dave West as general manager. Dave is taking more day-to-day control at the venue as Peter oversees expansion.

This has included developing the outside catering arm of the business, Swan About, as well as winning the food contract for the Globe Theatre on London's Bankside, branded as Swan at the Globe.

In 2002 the business was awarded a Bib Gourmand by Michelin, and the honour has been retained over the six subsequent years. The push to achieve a Michelin rating continues unabated with the appointment of head chef Scott Goss, who trained under Gary Rhodes.

Scott's passion for all things regional and seasonal was celebrated with a farmers' market and family fun day at the Swan earlier this month, again reflecting its roots as a village pub.

The day offered a chance to savour local produce from the many regular suppliers the restaurant uses year-round. This included a cheese tasting from Turners in Goudhurst and fruit smoothies made using fresh fruit from David Catt & Sons in Maidstone.

Also on the programme were cocktail making and tasting, fresh oyster tasting and ice-cream making. The new outdoor cooking zone offered a spit roast, as well as fresh burgers and sausages from Bethersden Farm Meats in Ashford, Kent.

Future plans include a deli and bakery shop in a cottage next to the Swan, which will also house sports medicine and massage specialist. While those may not be traditional pub activities