Crooked Billet

Stoke Row, Berkshire

Brakspear tenancy

Part of the charm of the Crooked Billet is that it dates back to 1642 and continues to remain "unmodernised". Without a bar, the beer comes from casks straight from the cellar.

The pub may be off the beaten track, but it certainly has quite a history - at one point it provided a hideout for highwayman Dick Turpin, who went out with the landlady's daughter.

It was also the venue for the reception after Kate Winslet's first marriage when guests were bangers and mash.

But since proprietor Paul Clerehugh took over in the early 1990s he has been making history for different reasons - principally the quality of the pub's food.

Self-taught, Clerehugh is widely regarded for creating an eclectic menu, including modern Italian, French provincial and popular brasserie influences, which all work in harmony.

Dishes are chosen with seasonal availability in mind and the à la carte menu is changed every three weeks. Popular dishes include pink carved venison fillet served with haggis, pan-fried sea bass fillet with garlic shrimps, and beef fillet with seared foie gras.

"The dishes are fantastic, but we spend a lot of time to ensure that the hospitality matches the quality of the food," says manager Louise Jackson.

Unlike most pubs in our Top 20 list, the Crooked Billet is very much a destination pub with almost all of its clientele visiting to eat. Although food is central to what the Billet is about, that doesn't mean that special care and attention isn't given to the drinks. These feature a selection of Brakspear beers plus Guinness, although there are no guest ales.

Clerehugh's passion for wine can be seen in a list containing more than 70 varieties, including three from local winemakers.

One thing that hasn't changed about the Billet since its very early days is the décor. Original features including inglenook fireplaces, low timbered ceilings, flagstone floors and old, scrubbed pine tables all remain and give the pub its unique character.