Land with a silver lining

Foreign investment in Argentina has elevated it to fifth place among the world's largest wine producers. Fiona Sims reports How have things changed...

Foreign investment in Argentina has elevated it to fifth place among the world's largest wine producers. Fiona Sims reports

How have things changed in Argentina?

For starters, Argentina is the fifth-largest wine producer in the world - yup, it makes more wine than the whole of New Zealand. Blame the Europeans, who came here in their droves at the end of the 19th century. Mind you, the country didn't have very good wine back then - the Argentinians drank most of what they produced and exported the rest as grape concentrate to countries such as Canada and Japan. But things have changed dramatically in recent years.

Foreign investment is huge

Since the 1990s, foreign investors have been (and still are) falling over themselves to grab a piece of the action, attracted by the low costs of production, the climate, the range of soils and the grape varieties - and there's still plenty of prime vineyard land for the taking. Yes - it's a real Garden of Eden for grapes and winemakers, all right.

What's being planted and where?

Anything goes here - no country can match Argentina's line-up of grapes. But the most interesting is the peppery Malbec, both on its own and in a blend, proving beyond doubt that it's a world-class grape. And then there's Tempranillo, followed by a host of Italian varieties, such as Barbera, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Bonarda. Among Argentina's white wines, it has its own card to play in Torrontés, a variety that produces a dry wine that is particularly aromatic, and which is going down well with wine-lovers.

Tell me more about Torrontés

It's a curiosity, actually. It has the potential to rival the best Gewurztraminers, but it's yet to make its mark over here. The main issue is that people haven't heard of it - and the best way to get converts is to get them to try it. Two good, reasonably priced wines to try are Don David Torrontés from Michel Torino (Noel Young Wines), and Crios de Susana Balbo (Sussex Wine Company)

Mendoza - the heart of Argentina's vineyard country

Two thirds of its wine and over 90% of the good stuff is made in Mendoza, just over the mountains from Chile. That said, it's a huge area with varying altitudes (some of the world's highest vineyards are here) and microclimates. The rest are spread out further north, in San Juan, La Rioja and Salta, and to the south, in Patagonia.

Tupungato's on everyone's lips

Talking of high-altitude vineyards, Tupungato boasts a fair few of its own. This sub-sub-region of Mendoza (Tupungato belongs in the Uco Valley, one of five Mendoza sub-regions) is attracting much of that foreign investment. The cool nights in warm regions such as this allow production of wines with lower alcoholic strengths, with the added advantage that it's possible to grow a range of grapes here. It is also said that the great exposure to ultraviolet rays can result in intensified flavours - and that this may even make these wines healthier to drink.

So nice weather, then?

Most of the time the skies are clear, with snowmelt from the Andes feeding the rivers through the hot summer months, and chilly night-time temperatures preserving the acidity and intensity of the grapes.

One to watch

Patagonia is still very much pioneer country as far as quality wine-growing is concerned, but of the areas stirring up the most interest is cool-climate Neuquén. I say quality, because the region has been growing grapes and making wine for several decades already, but nothing much to write home about until recently. Then the experts started poking around. At the last count it had only three wineries, but what they are producing is already raising eyebrows. Again, there's much experimentation going on over what varieties should be planted where, but there's already some first- class Malbec, Merlot and Pinot Noir.

Try this selection of ARGENTINian WINES

l 2006 Cuma Organic Torrontés,

Michel Torino, Cafayate

(£5.04, Hallgarten Wines 01582 722538)

Aromatic, peachy, lychee glug with twist of lime on the finish

l 2006 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec,

Valentin Bianchi

(£5.49, Liberty Wines 020 7720 5350)

Cocoa-dusted cherry fruit, pepper spice, good whack of acidity, lighter style

l 2006 Doña Paula Estate Chardonnay, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza

(£6.80, Codorniu (UK) 01892 500250)

Bright fruit, medium oak, lifted by some zingy acidity, good balance