The Kings Arms
Litton, Radstock, Somerset, BA3 4PW 01761 241301
? thekingsarmslitton.co.uk
The Kings Arms is the latest opening from the Kings Club, a new independent pub company run by Ian Rayner and Miles Johnson, original founders of the award-winning Bristol gastropub the Albion Public House & Dining Rooms.
Ian and Miles, who also own Bristol's Kensington Arms, have worked closely with Greene King to find historic country pubs in the south-west in need of some TLC and an injection of style, comfort and great food.
The Kings Arms is the first of three pubs with rooms to be opened by the pair before the summer, with others planned for later in the year. Located in the picture-postcard village of Litton, 15 miles from both Bristol and Bath, this splendid 15th-century Mendip coaching inn was taken over by the Kings Club in December.
After a six-week refurbishment, the dark and dingy interior has been transformed into a light, airy space, effortlessly blending the original character with stylish new décor.
The low beams, exposed stone walls and well-worn flagstones remain a key feature, with the recent addition of Neisha Crosland fabrics, hand-knitted cushions on the huge sofas, wood-burning stoves and a mix of village hall chairs and French refectory tables.
The new owners want to retain the pubby element for villagers. The small bar and its snug dominate one side of the L-shaped building, while the smart dining room on the other side of the open kitchen has a view across the extensive garden (and huge car park) and the River Chew.
In the kitchen, Chinese chef Buddha has arrived from two of Bristol's best restaurants, Bell's Diner and Quartier Vert, via a short stint at influential Californian restaurant Chez Panisse.
Buddha's focus is on British and Mediterranean dishes using local producers and he has already sourced ingredients from artisans on the doorstep.
At lunchtime, the menu stays under the £10 mark and includes roast butternut squash and almond soup (£4.50), game terrine and apple compôte with grilled bread (£5.50) or a hearty, rustic bowl of braised ham hock with Puy lentils and cabbage (£9.50). With so many walkers and cyclists passing through the village, the pub is also introducing sandwiches and afternoon teas for the summer.
In the evening, the food moves up a gear with dishes such as wild mushroom risotto with aged Parmesan and truffle oil (£10.50) and market fish pie with kale (£11.50), with everything staying under the £15 mark.
With city pubs the Albion and Kensington Arms in Bristol, Ian Rayner and Miles Johnson proved they have that magic touch when it comes to turning unloved local pubs into
something rather special. Indeed, they make it all look very easy.
They have created a formidable template for their future projects and the Kings Arms looks set to be the first of many successful rural ventures for them over the next year.
Mark Taylor
Pub facts
Owners: Ian Rayner and Miles Johnson (Greene King lease)
On the menu:
Starters: Poached mussels, parsley & cream (£5.50); seared king scallops, white bean purée & rosemary (£6.50); Kings Arms charcuterie (£10.50 for two)
Mains: Roast wild sea bass, braised fennel, salsify & lemon beurre blanc (£12.50); grilled leg of lamb, Puy lentils, cabbage & salsa verde (£13.50); fillet of beef, shallots, pommes Anna & red wine jus (two persons sharing) (£15 per person)
Desserts: Valrhona chocolate fondant, raspberry coulis & clotted cream (£5); passion fruit & lemon tart with crème fraîche (£5); Bramley apple tart Tatin & caramel sauce (£10 for two)
Menu innovation: Bar snacks of deep-fried pig's ear with shallot & caper mayo served in a half-pint glass (£3.50); oysters (£1.50 each). Lunchtime dishes such as Cornish crab on toast with lemon mayonnaise and fennel (£7.50) and spaghetti Bolognese with aged Parmesan and olive oil (£9.50). Traditional Sunday roasts are slow-cooked overnight, such as belly of local pork with winter greens, mash & cider gravy (£11.50); roast rib-eye of beef, Yorkshire pudding & duck-fat potatoes (£12.50); braised shoulder of lamb, Puy lentils, salsa verde (£12.50).
Wine list: A nicely-weighted list of 13 whites, 13 reds, two rosés and seven Champagnes and sparkling wines. The list starts with French Sauvignon Blanc or Merlot for £13.50 and rises to £34. There are seven wines by the glass. As well as the main wine list, there is a "cellar" list of 10 wines by the bottle, from £38 to £130.
Standing out from the crowd: The chef's table - a long refectory table seating 16 guests in front of the open kitchen - is already booked most evenings. Plans are afoot to open six B&B rooms at the pub next year.
