Seaside special
David Hancock meets Phil Lance, general manager of a boutique-style inn on Norfolk's Holkham Estate
Why our food business is a success
Producing consistently good food from locally-sourced produce and maintaining high standards are the key factors in the success of our food operation at the Victoria. We go to great lengths to recruit the right calibre of head chef. We were very lucky to have Neil Dowson, who left the Victoria in May. Neil attained the second AA rosette for food. Andy Bruce, formerly at the Rose & Crown in Snettisham, is now in charge of the kitchen and he continues to source top-notch ingredients from select suppliers along the coast. Again, he has kept the quality of food high and we've had great feedback from diners about his cooking.
Our best-selling dishes
Without question, our top-selling dish is fish and chips (£12.75), but much depends on the season. During the shooting season we find partridge, wood pigeon and pheasant (all shot on the estate) sell extremely well. Equally popular is our rib-eye steak, served with béarnaise sauce, chips and salad (£17), as it comes from cattle farmed at nearby Warham on the Holkham Estate.
Classic dishes appear to be back in favour in a big way - we sold 20 fish and chips in the bar and a further 10 in the restaurant the other day. Among the starters, the antipasto (£8), stays on the menu as it's so good and popular, featuring smoked venison from the estate and local Binham blue cheese. Also, the salmon and crab cakes (£7) are flying out the door, as it's a light dish, and we serve them with pickled cucumber and a tarragon mayonnaise. Our best-selling dessert is sticky toffee pudding, served with chestnut cream and toffee ice cream (£6), although the strawberry bavarois (£6), a summer favourite, is currently selling very well.
Our menu
Andy offers an imaginative choice of modern British dishes on his seasonally-changing carte, which lists local fish and shellfish, from a starter of Thornham mussels with linguine, garlic-and-herb cream (£7) to pan-fried cod on crushed potatoes with shellfish chowder (£15.25) for main course.
In September the game birds from the estate go back on the menu, say, roast wood pigeon with garlic mash, wild mushrooms and Ma-deira vinaigrette (£14.75), while estate-reared venison, perhaps served with our braised
cabbage and root-vegetable casserole (£16),
is always on the menu.
We don't lose sight of our roots as a pub. During the summer months, due to our location close to Holkham Hall and the beach, we draw huge numbers so it's essential to have an informal bar menu - potted shrimps and
salad (£7), halibut goujons and chips (£8.75), penne pasta and pesto (£7.75). More importantly, to cater for the summer crowds and make use of our super terrace and garden, we do a barbecue every day in peak season and every weekend from May to September, where we offer the likes of venison burgers and king-prawn kebabs.
How we recruit and motivate staff
Historically we have recruited Eastern Europeans, all of whom are really fantastic, but we have problems accommodating them all, so we are actively recruiting more local part-time people for the summer season. Most of our full-time staff are from overseas, their English is embarrassingly good and their work ethic is phenomenal - they want to work all the hours. These guys don't really need any motivating, just working with them and telling them they are doing a great job is all it needs. Also, their tips are very good. We pool all the tips and give them out every four weeks pro rata to the number of hours they have worked, so many take home some good extra cash.
Marketing and PR
The only PR we do is through Mary Rudd PR, who deals with the marketing for the whole of the Holkham Estate. With regards to our marketing, we do the occasional editorial, with the Mr & Mrs Smith guide, Alastair Sawday and the new AA Room at the Inn book, but other than that we don't really advertise. We rely on word of mouth from the satisfied guests who stay and dine here - our reputation precedes us.
Having the Globe Inn along the road in Wells-next-the-Sea works well as they compliment each other with regards to room and table bookings. If we're full we book people into the Globe and people staying at the Globe often dine here. Finally, Holkham Hall
and the beach draw thousands of visitors
each year and we benefit from being at the bottom of the drive and across the way from the beach road. Our walk-in business is huge in summer.
Best investment
Bringing the lodges on stream over the past 18 months has been fantastic, as we have had excellent feedback about them, especially Palmers and Cuckoo Lodges, both of which are secluded and very romantic. They offer the best of both worlds - you can stroll down the drive and experience the food and atmosphere of the hotel, and then go back to an isolated lodge and a blazing log fire.
Also, building the Orangery has doubled our restaurant covers, plus it's such a great room for wedding receptions and functions, with wonderful views across the salt marshes. Finally, updating the website has proved fruitful, generating more interest than ever in the Victoria, the Globe and all that the Holkham Estate has to offer, which now includes an Adnams Wine Cellar and Kitchen Store.
Plans for the future
The estate may purchase another pub similar to the Globe in the next few years when we have developed the Globe to the standard we want it to be. We have plans (and planning permission) to extend the Victoria and add a further 10 rooms. We are currently assessing whether we have the demand for the accommodation during the quieter winter months to make the building of the rooms worthwhile.
Top tips
Communication with your guests and diners is so important. You have to be as lively and as outgoing as possible, as well as being really friendly and make sure that nothing is too much trouble to ensure all the guests have a good time.
Also, try to keep the atmosphere as informal as you can, but don't let your operation become unprofessional.
Pub facts
Owners: Holkham Estate (a group of shareholders that include Lord and Lady Coke)
Turnover: In excess of £1.5m
GP Food: 68%
GP Drink: 61%
Covers a week: 2,500-3,600 in peak season (200-300 a day at the barbecue when the sun shines)
Food sales as % of turnover: 38%
(23% drink; 35% accommodation)