East Anglia

The Axe & Compasses

Arkesden, Essex

Today, the Axe & Compasses bears no resemblance to the ailing pub that Themis and Diane Christou took over in September 1992. Themis explains: "It was on the brink of closure and the villagers had offered to buy it from Greene King."

The Axe dates back to 1650 and is set in the tiny picture-postcard village of Arkesden. It needed to be a destination food pub to survive, but food was only contributing £1,800 per week when the Christous arrived. Now that income has multiplied many times and the Axe is a premier dining venue attracting people from up to 40 miles away.

Consistency is the key

Success of the Axe is built on consistency. "The last time anyone joined us full-time was nine years ago," says Themis. That isn't a bad record, considering the pub employs four chefs. Continuity is also provided by Themis' and Diane's three sons working at the leasehold pub.

Dining is divided between a 55-cover restaurant and 30 in the lounge. Food sales account for about three-quarters of turnover, but Themis is content not to go any higher and risk alienating the drinking community in the village. Locals have their own bar and compete in darts and quiz nights.

"At the end of the day, this is a pub and it retains the ambience of a pub," he says.

The Axe's cuisine is a mix of English, a hint of classic French and Greek Cypriot - the latter in recognition of Themis' birthplace.

The best-sellers are traditional English fare with home-made steak and kidney pie and lamb's liver and bacon vying for the top slot, both priced at £11.95.

Fish in demand

Other dishes finding favour are those featuring halibut, monkfish, lemon sole, sea bass and homemade fish pie. Four fish deliveries are required every week to meet demand. The menu rotates with the seasons and a conscious effort is made to use local suppliers whenever possible.