No longer the ugly duckling

The Ostrich in Colnbrook, Berkshire, has just undergone a £500,000 refurbishment. David Hancock finds out more With the busy M4 and M25 motorways...

The Ostrich in Colnbrook, Berkshire, has just undergone a £500,000 refurbishment. David Hancock finds out more

With the busy M4 and M25 motorways just a mile or so away, jumbo jets flying low over the rooftops en route to Heathrow, and Slough sprawling away to the west, the Ostrich comes as a big surprise amidst modern-day mayhem. The building is ancient, dating back about 900 years, and it's a monster of a place. It rambles along, and even overhangs, the High Street, timbers abound outside and in, and it claims to be England's third-oldest inn. All very good reasons not to buy it, but fledgling pub company Cross Oak Inns, who also own the Poacher in Tudeley, Kent the Kings Arms at Ockley and the Inn in the

Pond in Nutley, both in Surrey, did just

that in July 2005.

No doubt, on sobering up, the directors must have gulped at what they had taken on and one can only expect that the designer and builders experienced that same

overwhelming feeling. Yet, after a three-month refurbishment in summer 2006 and £500,000, and all concerned must be pleased with the final result as the new-look Ostrich

successfully blends the historic and

traditional with a contemporary twist.

Jane Eyles of Cross Oak Inns says: "We have given the Ostrich a new lease of life, turning it into a stylish, relaxed and friendly venue which

people can visit to enjoy freshly-cooked

food and drink."

Historic charm

The wonky, time-worn timbered façade remains intact but local designer Peter Higgins has been daring and clever inside, and it all works beautifully. Step through the huge glass doors (etched with an ostrich motif) spanning the old coaching entrance and you enter another world. There's a trendy new bar with a bright red frontage that picks up the red in the original stained glass in some of the tiny windows. Turquoise fabrics reflect the other colour in the glass, and the new slate-tiled floor is topped with chunky light wood tables and chairs.

Historic charm abounds in the dining room, with its large, sagging, sand-blasted beams, ancient standing timbers and bowed putty- coloured walls. The contemporary furnishings and fabrics, modern mirrors and effective

framed photos of parts of the inn all blend

in perfectly.

Capable chef

The food operation is in the capable hands of head chef Chris Perkins. He spent 14 months as a pastry chef alongside Andrew Pern at Michelin-starred Star Inn at Harome in Yorkshire. "It was months of solid hard work but it was a fantastic experience to work at one of best food pubs in the country."

Chris was already head chef when Cross Oak Inns bought the Ostrich and believes his role could develop as the company expands.

He says: "Their pubs are run on similar lines, with the Poacher being very much a mirror-image of the Ostrich, as both have been smartly refurbished in a similar contemporary style. The King's Arms is a more traditional pub and appeals to an older dining clientele.

"The company tries to keep the pubs as

individual as possible to avoid looking like a chain, but some aspects, such as the menu, are similar at both the Poacher and the Ostrich."

Broad clientele

His menu is extensive and modern British in style. It consists of classic dishes that have been given a modern interpretation and everything is freshly prepared on the premises. The wide-ranging choice reflects the demands of the area and the clientele.

Chris says: "We attract a broad cross-section of diners, from the blue-collar workers at the industrial estate round the corner who come for lunchtime sandwiches and salads to a growing number of couples and parties who visit for three courses in the evenings."

He adds: "The Ostrich menu is my menu now, but in the past, Cross Oak Inns liked my cooking style and food so they took the menu across to the Poacher to see if it would work.

"It has really taken off, which is good for me. I change the menu seasonally, with more salads and lighter dishes in the summer, and hearty casseroles and game dishes in winter. In the long run, as the company grows and acquires more pubs, I would like to become executive chef but remain here as head chef."

Integrated marketing

Since re-opening in September 2006, an intergrated marketing campaign has worked

wonders in ensuring customers return to dine at the Ostrich.

Working with Windsor Theatre and offering a prize of two free theatre

tickets a month has encouraged diners to fill in a form with their contact details and helped to increase the number of customers on the Ostrich mailing list to 1,000.

Future plans

Phase one of the ambitious refurbishment at the Ostrich involved renovating the function room upstairs. It is large, with a lofty, rafter ceiling featuring hundreds of closely-spaced beams. The famous stuffed "ostrich" lives in a recess off the landing. When money allows, phase two of the operation will include an extended patio area and the plan is to restore the old fire engine, currently housed in the flower shop, and turn it into an attraction in a glass display case in the car park.

Pub Facts

Turnover - £650,000

Number of Staff - 12

GP Food & Drink - 70%

Covers Week - about 600

Food sales as % of turnover - 65%

The Ostrich, High Street,

Colnbrook, Berkshire SL3 0JZ

Tel: 01753 682628

www.theostrichcolnbrook.co.uk

ON THE MENU

Ham hock terrine,

pineapple pickle, brioche £5

Butternut squash and

Parmesan risotto cake £5

Pan-fried calves' liver,

smoked bacon, chive mash £12.50

Herb-crusted lamb rump,

red wine jus £14.25

Sea bass, lime and rosemary Puy

lentils, parmesan crackling £13.95

Chocolate chilli parfait,

mango compôte £4.95

Sticky date pudding, toffee sauce £4.25

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