Haven in the hills
Wellington Arms,
Baughurst Road, Baughurst, Hampshire
Tel: 0118 982 0110
The "Welly", formerly a hunting lodge for the Duke of Wellington, is drawing discerning diners from far and wide after owners Jason King and Simon Page took over the pub a year ago and worked their magic.
The remodelled venue is set among a maze of lanes in the countryside between Basingstoke in Hampshire and Newbury in Berkshire.
The bar-cum-dining room is cosy, full of character and compact. It only has room for eight tables, so booking is essential for diners wanting to savour Jason's first-class, modern British cooking.
With such a strong emphasis on quality food, the million-dollar question is whether the Wellington has shaken off its "pubby" roots and become a restaurant.
Size may dictate its restaurant mode but it's still possible to sup a tip-top pint of Wadworth 6X.
The atmosphere is relaxed and informal - you are likely to share a seat with one of three cats - and alfresco drinks and meals can be enjoyed in the large garden in fine weather. The gents' loos are Spartan, gleaming and outside. So the Welly is definitely a pub, but only just.
Local foodies are beating a path to the front door of this establishment for fine food and wine, and few leave disappointed.
Drawing on his experience while working for Paul Bocuse in Australia and France and at London's Conran restaurants, Jason's daily chalkboard menus offer interest and imagination. Much of his kitchen produce is organic and sourced within a five-mile radius of the pub.
Deliberating over menu choices has never been so demanding. My colleague and I were tempted to order the lot as every single dish sounded delicious.
We kicked off with something seasonal yet unusual - crispy fried pumpkin flowers stuffed with creamy ricotta and feta, served with peppery wild rocket from the pub garden (£7), and it went down a treat.
The simple oak-smoked salmon starter (£7.50), was memorable for its accompanying Spanish tortilla made with eggs from the pub's free-range chickens.
The unusual venison and goose pot-pie (£13.50) was also impressive - chunks of tender meat, shallots and carrots slowly braised in real ale and served in an individual pot straight from the oven, replete with a baked-on puff pastry crust. My char-grilled rack of lamb (£15.50) was served pink and oozed flavour.
If we had any room, the apricot and almond tart with ginger ice-cream and the vanilla panna cotta (both £5.50) would have topped our pudding lists.
Overall this is a great gastropub and well worth repeat visits, although the bill mounted with extra charges for vegetables and 10% for service - which is excellent, by the way.
David Hancock
PubChef rating (out of 10)
Ambience 9, Value for money 8, Flavour factor 9, Overall impression 9
Beers: Wadworth 6X.
Wines on list: 19 whites (4 by the glass); 20 reds (4 by the glass); 2 rosés (1 by the glass); 4 Champagnes. Select independent suppliers; excellent tasting notes.
Main courses: £12.50 to £18.
Another thing: The free-range eggs on sale in the bar come from the 35 rare-breed chickens roaming in the field behind the pub.
Décor: to avoid the single bar/dining room looking cluttered and feeling claustrophobic, it has been carefully and sympathetically decorated with style and taste.
Original features include a fine terracotta tiled floor, exposed beams, plenty of wood and an open fireplace. Furnishings are eclectic, ranging from simple pine tables seating two to old larger dining tables, some carefully arranged in front of bench seating against the wall to maximise numbers. Tasteful check fabrics, scatter cushions, rustic pictures, a selection of books, as well as subdued lighting from individual table lamps and chunky church candles create a warm, cosy lived-in feel and a relaxed dining experience.
Lunch menu: Jason's lunch menu is a simpler affair of two (£15) or three-courses (£18), with a choice of three dishes at each course and is great value for money.
Typical dishes include organic zucchini, mint and feta soup, char-grilled tuna on roast vegetable salad with salsa verdi, and steamed damson pudding.
