Homing instinct

The Horseshoe in north London boasts a rate on-site

microbrewery. Humayun Hussain meets the Australian relaunching a family brand on the other side of the world

Australian-born Jasper Cuppaidge recalls a memorable recent experience when he flew across the world to present his mother with a case of his very own beer. "She was over the moon," says Cuppaidge proudly.

His own beer - how cool is that?

Cuppaidge's unusual story gets underway in Rockhampton in Queensland, where his grandfather owned a brewery supplying most of the state with the family's McLaughlin's branded beer. After his death the business was transferred to his young daughter, but it closed when she moved overseas.

Turning dreams to reality

Cuppaidge, who says the brewing business "got into his blood" when he was growing up, vowed to resurrect the McLaughlin name.

Having lived in Britain and worked in its restaurant trade for over 10 years, Cuppaidge dreamed of branching out on his own.

When the opportunity arose to take on a site in north London's upmarket Hampstead, he accepted the challenge with the intention of developing an on-site microbrewery.

"I wanted to open a pub with restaurant-style food. Hampstead is affluent, but its glut of high-street chain bars and restaurants meant that it lacked originality. I'd always wanted a site where I could have a brewery, which would offer a unique marketing angle and make that pub a focal point of the area," he explained.

The building he took over was an ex-Wetherspoon's pub where the best food had been heated in a microwave. It didn't even have a kitchen.

Matching quality with heritage

Cuppaidge and his business partners spent between £150,000 and £170,000 stripping the Horseshoe down to its bare shell. A fully-fitted bar and kitchen were installed and the interior was given a minimalist look with whitewashed walls and leather banquette seating in a large bar at the front and a split-level dining-room at the back. The overall effect was one of simplicity and elegance.

But setting up the basement brewery

proved the greatest challenge.

"Obtaining permission from the local council took some time. They had no idea what the requirements would be, but eventually it all fell into place. Customs and Excise were helpful and the person we'd employed to oversee the brewery's implementation and installation was also really supportive."

The on-site brewery concept has paid off - its home brew, formulated using the original recipe, outsells other draught beers.

Cuppaidge sells 13 to 15 barrels a week of the rich and dark 4.1% abv McLaughlin's Best Bitter - a "palate cleanser" that tastes best with food. He describes McLaughlin's Summer, at 3.6% abv, as "rounded and thirst-quenching". The former is made from British hops, while the latter uses lighter American hops.

The pub menu declares "quality produce from farm to fork" - the sourcing of all ingredients is a crucial issue, says Cuppaidge.

"Top-end ingredients and quality suppliers are fundamental to our ethos at the Horseshoe," he explains.

"We'd had a family house in Suffolk and I'd loved spending time there. As I'd met suppliers through my restaurant contacts, I decided to source meat and other produce from the town of Saxmunden. Free-range Sutton Hoo chicken sells very well and Red Poll T-bone steak, with moist, finely-grained meat, comes from a breed specific to the area. Our shellfish comes from the Cornish coast."

Cuppaidge's micro has resurrected the McLaughlin family name in brewing circles, much to his obvious delight.

"McLaughlin's suddenly has a loyal following because customers regard it as a local beer - so it belongs to them, too," he says.

On the Menu

Starters

Sautéed chicken livers with pine nuts and sherry vinegar - £5.95

Crisp whitebait with lemon, paprika and parsley - £6

Mains

Pan-fried pollock with green pea fritters and anchovy dressing - £9.75

Twice-cooked pork belly with Doreen's black pudding - £11.25

Desserts

Bitter chocolate brownie

Apple and blackberry crumble with custard

- all £5.50

The Horseshoe: facts 'n' stats

Covers per week: 650-700

Turnover (projected for the first year): £1.5m

Average food spend per head: £12 lunch, £21 dinner

Wet:dry split: 55%:45%

Beers and ciders: Leffe, Adnams, Deuchars IPA, Goose Island IPA, Coopers Sparkling Ale, Brothers Pear Cider

Wines: 26 whites (six by the glass),

29 reds (seven by the glass), 1 rosé

Owner: Jasper Cuppaidge

Best business idea since opening:

"Aside from being proven right about having an on-site microbrewery, I'd say it's our

diverse selection of beers. I wanted the best of

everything - England produces the best ales, so we only wanted to sell those. But this

country isn't exactly renowned for its lagers, so they are all imported, including Amstel,

Bitburger and Heineken. There are also

various interesting beers such as the Mexican lager Modelo Especial or American-based names such as Anchor Steam. Most of ours are quite light - around 4% abv. We were

prepared to change the beer selection

because it was such a gamble, but customer reaction has been fantastic. Word-of-mouth and staff recommendations have really pushed the beers and I'm thrilled with that."