Pub Review - William IV
William IV
Hoxton, London
Any new London pub that opens these days simply can't escape being defined as a gastro pub. It's as if the terms "boozer" or the "local" have somehow become disrespectful for a
pub. Then again, one can hardly blame any new pub owners in a competition-heavy market for going the extra mile by offering quality food and surroundings that offer an "experience" previously only associated with restaurants.
The owners of William IV are at pains to point out that they are not trying to be at the "high end" and that their establishment is very much a "pub of the people".
But whatever they may emphasise, there is no getting away from the fact that this is a high profile launch, otherwise why give it a quirky design and hire one of the capital's best PR outfits to do its publicity?
The owners are film-prop buyer Henry Davis and interior designer Shaun Clarkson, who have given the two-floor premises a highly-original touch amounting to a school classroom. I can't say that the downstairs, with its whites and creams, including white reclaimed school chairs, white painted wooden bar, white anaglypta ceiling and buttermilk walls, is likely to appeal to everyone, but it has its moments.
The upstairs comes off best. A cross between what one may find in one of those gentleman's clubs in London's Pall Mall and a school geography room, the dining area is adorned with old maps, globes, school-style lamps and cabinets displaying old books and fossils. It's certainly eye-catching.
The minimalist seasonal menu takes a modern British route with good fresh flavouring and substantial portions. Another plus point is that pricing levels are modest too. Orders are
taken at the bar only. The likes of white onion and cider soup (£4.50) or grilled vegetables on toast with pesto (£8), have an earthy quality about them.
Working even better, though, are a wonderful and lively steak sandwich with fries (£8), made all the better with chunky toasted bread, while the salmon fishcake with poached
egg, spinach and dill-butter sauce (£9) is a huge and flaky fishcake that should keep even the most ravenous mightily satisfied.
Puddings (all at £4.50) are equally filling and well executed, so it's worth making room for the apple crumble with custard or the delicately flavoured cheesecake with rhubarb compote.
Service is friendly and efficient.
PubChef rating (out of 10)
Ambience 7, Value for money 9
Flavour factor 9, Overall impression 9
BEERS: Carlsberg, Stella, Guinness,
Hoergarden, Leffe, Flowers IPA, Black Sheep,
Peroni, Becks and San Miguel.
MAIN COURSES: £6 to £11
WINES ON LIST: 8 white (6 by the glass),
8 reds (6 by the glass), 1 rosé and 1
Champagne.
ANOTHER THING: Co-owner Shaun Clarkson has also designed the interiors of several well-known London bars including Ten West, the Atlantic Bar and 10 Room .
