Pub Review - The Thomas Cubitt

The Thomas Cubitt​

Belgravia, London

If Victoria has a certain transience about it then a mere stone's away it's wonderfully countered by Belgravia, one of the most exclusive areas of the capital.

You know you are in gentrified terrain when there are rows of fine shops selling the likes of Havana cigars, luxury chocolates and pretty frocks - heck, Elizabeth Street, on which this pub is perched, is even where Lord Lucan was last spotted before he disappeared!

Named after the 19th-century master builder credited for building much of Belgravia and various other parts of London, the establishment fits the area like a hand in a glove.

While the downstairs bar is relaxed and airy, the three upstairs dining rooms evoke the Georgian and Regency periods in some splendour. There is oak flooring and panelling, reclaimed light fittings, real fires and luxury curtains, all adding oodles of atmosphere. Then there is the first-rate food and drink to match.

A modern British menu delivers on quality ingredients and skilful cooking without being too adventurous. Tart of baby spinach with field mushrooms and Stilton (£7.50), is beautifully underlined by the full flavour of the cheese while seared scallops on a bed of apple, broad beans and red pepper coulis (£11.50), entices a subtly sweet taste from the fruit.

The mains arrived later than one would have wished, but the duration was worth it. Roast loin of lamb with vine tomato tart, fondant potato, and rosemary and anchovy jus (£19.50),

delivered a chunky yet tender piece of meat, well partnered with its accompaniments. Similarly, stuffed breast of guinea fowl with veal (£15.50), hit the bull's-eye with its juicy game flavour enveloped in an addictive sauce of thyme jus

and vinegar. OK, so the sautéed spinach was a tad limp, but there were no complaints with the other side item of comforting mashed potato with onion.

Desserts (all at £6.50) served up an earthy rhubarb and apple crumble with home-made custard, and a melting chocolate fondant or petit-gâteaux as they call it here, bolstered by accompanying pistachio ice cream.

It has to be said that neither the grub not the drinks - particularly the excellent wine list - are on the cheap side, but then you are paying for a rarefied experience, with the owners clearly paying attention to each and every detail.

They are also positioning this as very much a "destination" pub and in that sense it's a great addition to London's gastropub scene.

Humayun Hussain

PubChef rating (out of 10)​

Ambience 9, Value for money 9

Flavour factor 10, Overall impression 10

BEERS: Abbot's, Old Speckled Hen, Fosters,

Kronenbourg, Guinness, Baltika, Corona, San

Miguel, Becks, Budvar, Magners Cider and

Leffe.

MAIN COURSES: From £15.50 to £21.50

WINES ON LIST: 29 whites (6 by the glass),

39 reds (7 by the glass) and 9 sparkling wines

and Champagnes.

ANOTHER THING: In the summer, the full floor-to-ceiling glass panel doors can be opened out onto the street, while in the winter, the street terrace area is sheltered by a canvas awning and warmed by heaters.