A silk purse out of a sow's cheek

That it's managed to make Bath chaps its signature dish is testimony to the quality of the food and ambience at the Albion Inn, Bristol.

MARK TAYLOR probes the gastro pub's success.

After only six months since opening, there isn't much room left on the Albion's

mantelpiece for awards and reviews. When I speak to co-owner Ian Rayner, he has just been reading more reviews of the pub in The Times and The Guardian. A week before that, the South West edition of London commuter newspaper Metro nominated the Albion for the title Restaurant of the Year, and the Bristol Evening Post named it Newcomer of the Year.

Add to that a Class magazine award for Best Pub, a glowing review in the Daily Telegraph and visits from Michelin inspectors, and it's hardly surprising that Rayner describes the past few months as "amazing - almost surreal at times". Situated in Bristol's affluent Clifton Village area, the Albion has fast become one of the city's top dining experiences. Ever since Rayner and his business partners, Miles Johnson and Owain George, opened the doors in July 2005, the place has been packed with diners, although its real ales, ciders and wines have become an equal draw for locals.

Restored at a cost of just under £500,000, this splendid, grade II-listed, 17th-century coaching inn has become the hub of Clifton Village, but Rayner isn't taking its phenomenal success for granted. He says: "We obviously knew that, with the location and the actual styling of the property, we'd be busy, but we never really thought that after six months we would have reviews in three national papers and Michelin inspectors checking us out.

Seasonal, local, experimental

"When people knew who was behind the Albion, a lot of people wanted to come in and put us down. Managing the huge expectation has been the biggest challenge, but the recognition we've had has settled a lot of questions." A large chunk of the pub's success is down to the kitchen, headed by chefs Jake Platt and Toby Gritten, who met at top Bristol restaurant Bell's Diner. Before they started working at the Albion, they took time out to source the very best West Country suppliers. And it shows in the menu, which is fiercely seasonal, local and not afraid to experiment.

One of the biggest-selling starters has become the old West Country delicacy of Bath chaps - the braised, rolled tongue and cheek of a pig, sliced and fried to order - which is served with white onion purée and grain mustard. "The Bath chap was a big risk to put on the menu as a signature dish," admits Ian. "People absolutely love it, although it has also become something of a dare dish! Toby and Jake have been unbelievable and a huge amount is down to them.

"We never expected to open a space that was so food-driven. People queue up for pints on Friday and when the food comes out of the kitchen their heads literally turn."

As well as diners in the lively downstairs bar, the Albion has a more relaxed dining room upstairs, and a private dining room that seats 14 people. "A lot of people do prefer eating in the downstairs bar because of the atmosphere and it's actually quite hard to push them upstairs.

"The older people tend to want to go upstairs because it's more like a restaurant, whereas the younger customers want that pub atmosphere.

"The private dining room has been very popular. It's a niche market for us." Another successful recent development has been the "chef's table" - a long farmhouse-style table adjacent to the open kitchen. Says Rayner: "The chef's table has become a big thing in London restaurants, and it has really taken off here. We'll be promoting it even more this year. The chefs love the theatrical side of it and the customers love the fact that there is the potential for shouting and swearing at any moment!"

Sharing approach

Shared dishes have also been very popular at the Albion, with the côte de boeuf and tarte tatins for two people becoming bestsellers. "Our chefs are going to concentrate on this and extend it so we have dishes for four or more people. It's the way forward."

Currently on the look out for more properties in the West Country, Rayner and his co-owners have made their first pub venture look incredibly easy. So, what's their secret? Rayner says: "The trouble with our industry is that a lot of people take running a pub as rocket science. What you have to do is know your market. You've got to adjust rapidly to your market on a day-to-day basis. If something sells, great, keep selling it. If something doesn't, then get it off straight away."The wine list

Ian Rayner describes the wine sales at the Albion as "phenomenal", with real ales and ciders also outselling lager. The wine list has 16 whites and 16 reds by the bottle and eight available by the glass. When the pub opened in July 2005, the list also included a small selection of fine wines priced between £20 and £80, although Rayner soon realised that most of his customers were aiming for bottles under £25. He says: "People tend to gravitate towards bottles around the £13.50 to £25 mark, but we're lucky because our house wines are so good. People are surprised at the quality of the house wine and we've become known for it."Facts and figures

Covers: The bar and dining rooms have a potential 90 covers, plus an additional 50 outside.

Covers per week: Between 650 and 700

GP: 65%

Wet:dry split: 60:40

Average spend: Dinner £40 per head; lunch £8 to £15 per head.On the menu at

the Albion

West Country shellfish, Somerset cider,

parsley, cream, £6.50

Three reasons to love scallops, £8.50

Cured foie gras, pea velouté,

Parmesan crisp, £8