Family steps in to save the Groom

When locals won their campaign to save the Horse & Groom, the only pub in the Cotswold village of Bourton-on-the-Hill, it was so controversial that it warranted a half-page news story in the Daily Telegraph.

The closure of another village pub doesn't usually attract so much publicity, but this was different for the inn's owners were millionaire fashion tycoon George Davies and his wife, Fiona.

Fiona Davies, a designer whose husband built the Next fashion chain, Asda's George brand and Marks & Spencer's Per Una range, had owned the Georgian pub since 1996, but applied for permission to turn it into a private home earlier this year. The application provoked 50 letters of objection from villagers, who had already suffered the loss of their local shop, school and post office.

The residents of Bourton-on-the-Hill triumphantly won the campaign when the couple withdrew their plans and decided to sell the pub. For the villagers, the other good news was that the new owners were established publicans Robert and Gill Greenstock, who run the award-winning Howard Arms at Ilmington in Warwickshire.

The Greenstocks bought the freehold of the Horse & Groom and immediately handed over the keys to their sons, Tom, aged 29, and Will, 27, who have been running the business since it re-opened in July.

The Greenstock brothers are no strangers to the business, having both worked at their parents' pub - Tom as assistant manager and Will as head chef. For the siblings, having their own pub has been a long-term dream, and one with a rather steep learning curve.

"There was a certain expectation right from

the start because we were the sons of established publicans," admits Tom.

"Our parents have built up a great reputation with their businesses in the area over the years so there are certain standards associated with the Greenstock name. It also meant we had to get it right from the start because the Cotswolds is very competitive for food pubs."

In some ways, the brothers had their work cut out for them. The previous owners had run the pub down to the point where it was only open for a few hours each week and it wasn't serving food. In such an affluent area known for its highly-rated gastro pubs, the Horse & Groom was crying out to be turned into a food-driven operation.

Says Tom: "I'd been to the pub about seven or eight years ago when George Davies first had it. He had a Michelin-starred chef and a full food operation and it was very nice. I could see the potential then."

Although the pub is already doing up to 350 covers a week on the food side, it hasn't attracted as many drinkers as originally hoped, although this may be more to do with the fact that the Greenstocks have made the Horse & Groom completely non-smoking.

"I'm sure it has contributed to the lack of drinkers, but because the pub was closed for a week before we re-opened it, we had the opportunity to either make it non-smoking from the start or run with it for a couple of months and slowly bring it in," says Tom. "There are signs on the front door saying it's non-smoking and, inevitably, there will be people who are put off by our smoking ban, but that's to be expected. I think a smoke-free environment makes for a much better dining experience and people of all age groups actually say they appreciate the fact we don't allow smoking."

Another slightly unusual move has been the lack of printed menus. The only menu appears on a large blackboard and orders are taken at the bar. It has taken a few customers a while to get used to this system, but for the kitchen it allows for total flexibility.

Will says: "We've had busy services where four or five dishes have changed so it allows us to wipe off dishes as they sell out and then write the new ones on straightaway.

"It means we don't have to reprint menus all the time. Dishes will stay on the menu for three days maximum and then I like to change it."

The Greenstocks have also had the opportunity of using the same local suppliers as they did at their parents' pub.

"These relationships have been built up over a number of years," says Will, "and it has made life a lot easier knowing that we can trust these guys, although we are already hearing about new producers, including a local woman who produces the best rare-breed Dexter beef I've ever tasted."

Tom adds: "Ultimately, we've taken the bits of the Howard Arms that we like and added a more youthful approach, by reducing the size of the menu and making it a little more relaxed and keeping it simple. I think some of the locals think the pub's still too food-driven, but I don't think they're too surprised because they knew my parents' style."

So is this the first of many pubs for the "sons of Greenstock"?

Tom sees no reason why not.

"If this goes well and we prove ourselves here, then why can't there be more? Perhaps the next step would be for us both to have a pub of our own. I think five would be the limit, though, because more than that and you can lose that personal touch and the control over the standards. That's so important. The danger is often that people overstretch and we don't want to run before we can walk." On the menu

Starters

Marinated feta, roast pumpkin and olive salad with sherry vinegar dressing, £5.50

Pigeon, pheasant and pistachio terrine with beetroot and red onion chutney, £5.50

Fish soup, rouille, Gruyere, olive oil toasts, £6

Mains

Pan-fried fillet of skate wing,

sun-blushed tomato, prosciutto and

parsley dressing, £12.50

Griddled Old Spot pork medallions with

apple, pear and black pudding

compôte and cider cream, £11

Confit of duck leg, red cabbage, chestnuts, lardons, thyme jus, £10.50

Desserts

Vanilla pannacotta, spiced oranges, £5

River Café's Chocolate Nemesis, £5.50

Mincemeat Bakewell tart with

mascarpone cream, £5Facts and figures

Since opening its doors in July this year, the Horse & Groom is now serving between 250 and 350 covers a week. The kitchen is working to a 65% GP and the wet:dry split is 40:60. Additional income comes from the five B&B rooms upstairs, let at £80 for a double room and £55 for a single.