Retro active

Pub operator Geronimo Inns broke the mould when it opened a premium food-led outlet at Britain's busiest airport back in May.

JOHN HARRINGTON reports on its progress

Hungry and thirsty travellers at London's Heathrow Airport now have a novel alternative to the usual offers of Costa Coffee, Pret A Manger and JD Wetherspoon.

In May, food-pub specialist Geronimo Inns opened a new outlet, the Tin Goose, in the departure lounge at the newly-developed retail Section: at Terminal One.

The move is a departure for the company, and for the gastro pub concept as a whole - and for Geronimo, it's a case of 'so far, so good'.

The first thing that hits the customer when entering the spacious Tin Goose, Geronimo's 15th site, is the striking decor. Named after the first-ever passenger plane, it is themed around retro travel. A giant map of the world and pictures of air travel from a bygone era adorn the walls. The upholstery looks authentic for that period and there is even a model aeroplane on a ledge outside.

'It's meant to evoke 1930s and '40s travel - the golden age,' says Geronimo's operations director Ed Turner. 'We wanted people to feel that travel is as glamorous as it used to be.' Turner says their aim for the Tin Goose was to transfer Geronimo's pub concept - which offers restaurant-quality food, an extensive drinks selection and a relaxed atmosphere - into a whole new setting. 'We believe we have a great product and we can alter that product to get it into lots of different environments.'

The Geronimo style is reflected in the pub's menu. Examples include pure ground beefburger with potato wedges (£7.50), bangers and mustard mash (£7.95), plus warm asparagus and dolcelatte tart (£6.50). Pastas, salads and sandwiches are also offered.

A total of 27 wines, 18 beers and several premium spirits are listed for the pub's varied customer mix, which includes business travellers, families and stag parties. Standard offers mix with more exotic brands; the beer menu includes Carling, Stella, and London Pride, alongside Tiger Beer from Singapore and Russian lager Baltika.

Explaining the Tin Goose's appeal, Turner says: 'I think people's expectations, certainly of drinking in airports, is at high-street level. Someone like Wetherspoon's does a very good job but I think there are people who are now looking for better offers. Not everybody wants to be in a pub. They want to be in a more modern environment, which is where I think we come in.'

Initial sales have been promising. The pub serves 4,000 covers a week, with an average spend per head of around £10. Turner says he is 'very pleased' with trading so far.

Operating in an airport presents unique challenges. Most strikingly, 60% of meals ordered at the Tin Goose are breakfasts. The breakfast menu includes classics such as the full English (£7.95) and bacon butty (£3.50) as well as eggs benedict (£5.95) and maple pecan (£2).

'We knew we would have to do a lot of breakfasts, we wanted to be able to deliver all food within three to 10 minutes, which we are delivering. We've got very good suppliers who can deliver the kind of food that people really wanted, which is what you find in our pubs.'

And with 5,000 hot drinks sold each week, it sells more coffee than the rest of the Geronimo estate combined. Turner says they offer a premium selection of hot drinks, with their own blend of coffee beans and Valhalla drinking chocolate.

'We are running a bar but we've still got to be producing coffee as quickly as Caffa Nero, and as good a quality as Caffa Nero,' says Turner. 'I'm delighted to say the guys are doing that.'

Flexibility is crucial when operating in an airport. There is no typical customer at the Tin Goose, so staff must be able to cater for everybody's needs. For example, some people will go straight to the bar and order their food while others will expect table service, so the Tin Goose

caters for both.

'People's expectations are changing,' says Turner. 'If you want a pub, you can go and sit at the bar or a table and drink pints. We sell a lot of food so some people think it's a restaurant.

'If you are a business person and flying out early one morning you can have a breakfast, then if you happen to fly out the next week in the afternoon with your partner, you can sit and have a glass of Champagne. You use it for the occasion you want to use it for.'

Logistically, running a pub 'airside' - after passport control - is no easy task. Beer can be delivered directly to the back door, but everything else must go through a refrigerated holding centre where it is x-rayed before being shipped in. And sales reps from drinks companies have to go through passport control before they can enter the pub.

'But they are keen to come and work with us because we are good at what we do, but also because they get some great exposure,' Turner explains. 'It's a bit of a showcase for some really premium brands. We've got a very good cross Section: of sales; if there's a lot of flights going to Spain then people will be drinking San Miguel, if they are going to Prague they will be drinking Staropramen.'

For security reasons, the Tin Goose's landlord, airport operator, BAA, insists that plastic cutlery is used throughout. Amazingly, only two metal knives are allowed in the kitchen - and they have to be registered on a log book. But perhaps the biggest headache concerns recruitment. All staff must have references dating back five years, which means it can take a while to get employees on site.

'But the rewards are high for them when they get here,' says Turner. 'There's a good sense of teamwork, a good sense of fun, and they get to shop in the duty free area. It's a very different environment and a huge learning experience for anyone who wants something different.'

On the plus side, Geronimo has avoided the hassle of applying for a new licence at the Tin Goose because airside locations are exempt from the new regime. Turner says BAA is 'extremely involved', providing Geronimo with useful information such as customer dwell times and food and drink preferences. 'They are really helpful in that way,' says Turner.

Looking ahead, Turner expects changes if BAA goes through with plans to fly domestic flights from Terminal One. Business travellers and people on breaks to Europe currently form the bulk of the traffic through the terminal.

'People flying back to Edinburgh, Manchester or Glasgow will probably have even shorter stay times. They'll probably be more drink-orientated than food-orientated. We've got to make sure we pitch it to their level as well.'

Turner gives an enthusiastic response to the idea of opening other airport sites, should the opportunity arise. Geronimo has some 'amazing ideas' for other outlets, he says, after a confident start at the Tin Goose.

'If the BAA will have us, we will be absolutely over the moon,' he says. 'We can be one of the best operators in the airport - and there are some

bloody good operators there.' Flexible approach

The Tin Goose's ability to adapt in the unpredictable environment of a busy airport was tested during this summer's strike action by staff at British Airways' catering supplier Gate Gourmet.

Within 36 hours of being told that BA was no longer serving meals, the Tin Goose had set out a stand-alone deli counter, serving frustrated travellers with a range of items including sandwiches, fruit, yoghurt and muffins.

'We went from a standstill to having this fully operational on a Friday morning on a Bank Holiday weekend, one of the busiest flying days of the year,' says Ed Turner.

'That's the flexibility you've got to have, but that's part of the challenge.'

From the wine list:

Whites: Chenin Blanc 2004 Groote Post (£3.50 175ml glass/£5 250ml glass); McHenry Hohnen Sauvignon/Semillon 2004 (£4/£5.70); Louis Latour Chardonnay Grand Ardeche 2002 (£4.20/£5.90).

Reds: Modello Rosso di Valpolicella 2004 (£3.