PubChef Awards 2005 - Seafod cook-off

Our five finalists in the Seafood category cookoff in the PubChef Awards focused on using local ingredients. Jo Bruce and Max Gosney report.

Seafood is a healthy, versatile and increasingly available feature on pub menus. There are around 100 different types of seafood available in Great Britain, which offers chefs a wealth of menu options and the chance to serve customers something different. Seafood is also a healthy option to feature on menus and there is increasing consumer demand for it. For our five finalists, seafood is already a major focus of their existing menus.

With chefs from Cornwall, Conway and Kincardine-on-Forth, our judges had high expectations for the end results. Seafood for the ingredients came from suppliers in Llandudno, St Ives and Fort William. This cook-off again saw a big focus from our finalists on sourcing and using local ingredients. This cook-off was a real test of technical skill with the chefs scaling, filleting, and de-boning their fish. Red gurnard, monkfish, turbot and sea bass were the species chosen by our fishermen's friends.

The finalists -​

Barry Edwards ​PUB:​ Queens Head, Glanwydden, near Llandudno, Conwy THE DISH:​ Roasted Conwy Monkfish. BACKGROUND:​ Began washing dishes at the pub when landlord Robert recognised his potential and offered him a position and financial help to train at Llandrillo Catering College. Barry is in his third year at college and attends one day a week. SUPPLIER:​ Mermaid Seafoods, Llandudno THE FISH:​ Monkfish. "Nice, firm creamy texture."​ ON SEAFOOD:​ "Use good, fresh fish and keep it simple. We like to use herbs at the pub rather than dense sauces."​

Tom Zsigo ​PUB:​ The Lion Inn, Trellech, Monmouthshire THE DISH:​ Russian-style monkfish. "I have a Hungarian family background so I guess I was inspired by that."​ BACKGROUND:​ Tom has been proprietor at the pub for nine years with his wife, Debbie. They also run the Moon & Sixpence, Monmouthshire. Debbie taught him how to cook. SUPPLIER: M&J Seafood THE FISH:​ Monkfish. "It's very versatile and you can cook it in a dish with strong flavours. Monkfish is very firm and meaty."​ ON SEAFOOD:​ "The big mistake is to overcook fish. Don't cook it for an excessive period or it will become tough very quickly."​

Alan Poole​ PUB:​ The Norway Inn, Perranarworthal, Truro, Cornwall THE DISH:​ Fillet of fresh Cornish turbot Nanterrow. "I'm a fish fanatic and I am constantly working with my suppliers to come up with some new dish ideas. This recipe is inspired by my cheese supplier, Menallack Farm. They produce the Nanterrow chives and garlic cheese, which combines brilliantly with the turbot."​ SUPPLIERS:​ Celtic Fish & Game, St Ives, Cornwall, Cornish Farmhouse Cheeses, Menallack Farm, Penryn, Cornwall BACKGROUND:​ Has been at the pub for three years and a chef for 38 years. THE FISH:​ Turbot. "It's the finest fish there is. The texture and flavours are fabulous and its in good stocks in Cornwall."​ ON SEAFOOD:​ "Buy the best fish and cook it simply. If you have paid a lot of money you do not need to do lots with it."​

Tony Budde ​PUB:​ Unicorn Inn, Kincardine-on-Forth, Fife, Scotland THE DISH:​ Sea bass fillet in roasted pepper and smoked garlic butter, with creamed potato and fennel topped with chive crème fraiche. "It's a very popular choice at the pub. The butter and garlic are both locally sourced and I think that's important. The creamy garlic flavours complement the fish."​ SUPPLIER:​ MJW's, Falkirk, Scotland BACKGROUND:​ Freeholder at the pub for four years with wife Liz. ON SEAFOOD:​ "It's all about getting the right supplier. If you can do that then the quality of the dish should follow. We have a different supplier for each fish, because they are better at sourcing specific types."​

Tony Warburton​ PUB:​ Crown Inn, Church Enstone, Oxfordshire THE DISH:​ Red gurnard fillets, bulgar wheat salad, seared scallops and red pepper dressing. "I like summer salads and it seems like a natural combination with a light dish. The addition of scallops gives added depth."​ BACKGROUND:​ Tony and wife Caroline have been freeholders at the Crown Inn since last February. Tony previously worked at Three Choirs Vineyard in Gloucestershire as head chef. THE FISH:​ Red gurnard. "A fabulous fish, which is totally under-rated."​ SUPPLIER:​ Cotswold Fish & Game, Cirencester ON SEAFOOD:​ "Serve fish without fuss. I love roasted or grilled fish with just a wedge of lemon."​

The judges -​

Editor of the Les Routiers Pubs and Inns Guide 2005 and former editor of the AA Pub Guide; DAVID HANCOCK​ Broadsheet food writer; MARK TAYLOR​ Foodservice director for Young's; PETER MILSTED​ PubChef reporter; MAX GOSNEY​

Said and done -​

"If you can't do good fish in Cornwall where can you do it?"​ CHARLES EDGELER​, pub manager the Norway Inn, Cornwall. "I saw RICK STEIN​ saying use this fish. So I did."​ TONY WARBURTON​ on how he fell in love with red gurnard. "Are we having it for lunch?"​ Judge DAVID HANCOCK​ on Tony Warburton's winning dish. The chef's guests discuss the history of the Scottish parliament as the chefs get cooking. "Can you go up and collect your award,"​ PubChef editor JO BRUCE​ to shocked winner Tony Warburton.

The judges' verdicts -​

TONY BUDDE​ - Judges praised Tony for his excellent cooking of the sea bass. His presentation was excellent, his ingredients were balanced. They said he was meticulously tidy. BARRY EDWARDS​ - He was praised for his interesting dish idea, excellent local sourcing and careful cooking of the monkfish. At just 19, he was described by the judges as a promising young talent. TONY WARBURTON​ - A relaxed and organised chef according to the panel. A really vibrant red gurnard dish that was well balanced and made the most of a more unusual fish, which was readily available. The scallops were lovely and sweet. Superb salad. ALAN POOLE​ - His cheese and turbot combination was a hit with the judges and they were impressed with this innovative idea. He was also praised for using runner beans - often neglected by pub chefs. TOM​ - He was praised for his red cabbage, which looked fantastic. He was also said to be technically impressive in the preparation of his monkfish and his innovative presentation of the dish.

The winner -​

Tony Warburton, 39, chef-proprietor of the Crown Inn in Church Enstone, Oxfordshire, was voted winner of the Seafood category. His winning dish was red gurnard fillets, bulgar wheat salad, seared scallops and red pepper dressing.

Judge David Hancock said: "He is a relaxed and well organised chef. The balance of flavours in his dish was excellent."​ Tony said: "It was great fun and I am delighted with the result. My supplier will be delighted. That's the first time I've cooked the dish before today. It was just an idea in my head. I guess that lack of practice was a blessing in disguise."​ Tony has been freeholder with his wife, Caroline, at the Crown since 2003. It is their first pub. Tony - who was trained at Bury College and has been a chef for 20 years -spent six years at the Three Choirs

Vineyard in Gloucestershire. He believes fish should be served as simply as possible. He says: "I love roasted or grilled fish, with​