Battle of the chefs - Fair game
British venison is the key ingredient as two chefs go head-to-head at the Sherborne Arms in the Cotswolds. Max Gosney reports.
The chefs -
Name: Lee Groves Age: 33 Position: Head chef at the Sherborne Arms in Northleach, Gloucestershire Experience: Lee learnt his trade under Franco Taruschio at the Walnut Tree in Abergavenny, Wales. He left to join the Three Horsehoes in Witney, Oxfordshire, where he became head-chef. Lee joined the Sherborne Arms in 2003. On Alan: "If he doesn't get over-excited then he is a very talented young chef and could definitely win." Game on: "I love this time of year when it's game season," enthuses Lee. "I have a top supplier who can get me venison most of the year round. We have a light approach to cooking at the pub so I like to combine game with sweet or spicy sauces." Why I'll win: "I think my experience could prove decisive," says Lee. "But if Alan does win I will take it as a huge compliment because I have been grooming him for the past couple of years."
Name: Alan Gargate Age: 20 Position: Second chef at the Sherborne Arms, in Northleach, Gloucestershire. Experience: Alan studied for an NVQ at catering college in Southend, Essex. He took a junior chef position at the three Horseshoes in Witney, Oxfordshire where he first met Lee. He rejoined his colleague in the kitchen when he arrived at the pub three months ago. Ambition: "I want to own my own pub but getting the cash to afford it is going to be difficult," says Alan. Game on: "I love cooking venison. It's really hearty winter food and I am a fan of most game dishes." On Lee: "He's been winding me up about the contest all week," says Alan. "He's a great person to work for, though he doesn't like my fondness for Jamie Oliver's cookbooks." Why I'll win: "I sat up last night wondering what the ingredients were going to be. I feel quite nervous but if I remember to concentrate I can win," says Alan.
The battle -
Alan Gargate, second chef at the Sherborne Arms in the sleepy Cotswold village of Northleach, attempted to overcome the odds by beating Lee Groves, his boss and the pub's head chef. Armed with youthful enthusiasm 20-year-old Alan was confident that he could secure the bragging rights in the pub kitchen and avoid a forfeit of preparing the restaurant for evening service. However, Lee - who was a finalist in PubChef's Food From Britain cook-off final last month - remained secure in his belief that experience would ensure he maintained the established order in the kitchen.
The challenge -
Time: Each chef is given a box of mystery ingredients and challenged to create two dishes in under 45 minutes. The chefs will receive different sets of ingredients, though both will feature venison.
Before -
Liverpool-born landlord Dave Lydiat swiftly puts the bags of mystery ingredients in the pub cellar to protect them from the chefs' prying eyes. "They'll be snooping at them if you're not careful," warns the jovial scouser. Dave is unwilling to pick a champion from his two chefs. "I am in a no-win situation," he says. "If I say who I think will win I could be accused of favouritism. I'm totally impartial."
The locals, unrestricted by personal loyalty, argue that youth can conquer experience if Alan remains calm and focused. Their view is boosted by news that Lee has given Alan first choice of the mystery ingredients. However, Dave remains tight-lipped and dons a tracksuit in a bid to escape any accusations of bias during the cooking contest. "I'm going out to take football training at the local school," he explains. "If I am not here then I cannot know which chef cooked which dish when it comes to judging."
And they're off -
45 minutes to go: The chefs eagerly scan the mystery ingredients. Lee spies the bottle of red wine and decides to propose a liquid alternative to the impending cooking contest. "We'll take the wine and two glasses back into the kitchen," he jokes. Alan scores the first victory of the afternoon when he opts for the venison steaks. "That's a very wise choice," says Lee. "There are some great dishes he can do with those."
40 minutes to go: Both chefs have devised their dishes. Alan says: "I'm going to pan fry the steaks and create a parsnip and butternut squash mash." Lee opts for a casserole- style blend of diced venison, red wine and vegetables. Lee is quick off the blocks as he begins to fry the meat while Alan chops up his carrots (which didn't make it into the final dish) and adds them to a roasting tray.
35 minutes to go: Alan begins to boil the parsnips and butternut squash for his mash. Lee decides to fry his sweet potatoes. "I'm going to caramelise them before they are added to the venison," he explains. Lee also adds his sliced bread to the grill. "I'm going to use it to make a Welsh rarebit-style dish with the blue cheese," he says.
30 minutes to go: Lee chops up his tomatoes and checks his bread isn't burning under the grill. He also gives the venison a stir and checks on the sweet potato. Alan adds some thyme to the roast carrots, which are placed in the oven. He also combines his blackberries with a stock in preparation for his veal sauce.
25 minutes to go: Lee is buoyed by a moment of inspiration. "I'm going to do a venison burger," he proclaims. "The idea just came to me now. I hope it's not too late to cook it." Alan gets to work on his own starter dish; sliced venison on a bed of shallots and topped with leeks.
20 minutes to go: Both chefs frantically tend to their pots and pans, which boil and fry various ingredients on the crowded stove. Lee seasons his burger with some salt and pepper before pan-frying it.
15 minutes to go: Lee removes his bacon from the deep fryer while Alan prepares his leek garnish. Lee also dices up his mushrooms and combines them with the butter beans. "If I added them straight to the casserole they would just break up," he explains.
10 minutes to go: The chefs are looking confident as we enter the final furlong. Alan checks his veal steaks before turning his attention back to the leek and shallots frying on the stove.
5 minutes to go: Alan mashes up his parsnip and butternut squash and begins to plate up his first dish. Lee is not far behind as he removes his cooked venison burger from the stove. He also adds some chopped plums to the grill, which he aims to serve with the venison burger. The chefs negotiate a trade as Alan swaps bacon for berries. Both parties appear delighted with the deal.
1 minute to go: Lee combines bacon, burger, chopped tomato and blue cheese with the grilled bread. The proud chef christens his new creation a "New Yorker-style venison burger". Alan adds the sweet berry sauce to his venison steaks and mash. The tower of food topples but is quickly rearranged by the nimble chef.
Time's up: Alan finishes plating up both his dishes and strides confidently out of the kitchen for a well-earned pint. Lee follows shortly, after adding a few final touches tohis dishes.
The results -
The three-strong judging panel comprised Dave Lydiat, owner of the Sherborne Arms; Graham Coles, an engineer in Gloucestershire and regular at the pub; and Max Gosney, reporter on PubChef magazine. The tasting panel rated each dish on its presentation, taste and creative use of ingredients. Lee's New Yorker-style venison burger was an instant hit with all three judges who praised the subtle combination of sweet plum flavours with the richness of the venison and blue cheese.
Alan's venison steaks on a bed of parsnip and butternut squash was also a hit with the panel who endorsed it as a "fine winte
