Beer and Food - Euro stars
Interbrew is on a mission to dominate what it predicts is a speciality beers sector set to soar. Max Gosney travelled to the home of Hoegaarden to find out more.
Boarding a train in London and travelling via a 23-mile underwater tunnel to Belgium would once have been considered the stuff of science fiction. And, as our Eurostar leaves Waterloo station, so it will be considered equally bizarre that beer was ever dismissed as an unworthy match for fine foods argues Colin Pedrick, managing director, on-trade sales at Interbrew UK. "I can see a world where a speciality beer menu is on every restaurant table," says Colin. "It may sound unlikely but the potential for beer and food is huge." He speaks passionately as the train thunders through the Channel Tunnel destined for Brussels and the launch of Interbrew's new range of speciality beers destined for select UK bars and pubs.
The Eurostar arrives in the Belgium capital and we are quickly ushered onto a bus bound for the Hoegaarden brewery. It is here, at the ancient buildings that have brewed the white beer since 1445, that Interbrew unveils the key weapons in its bid to drive the concept of beer with food. "We need to do something new," explains Colin. "We need to step up the pace because we believe that speciality beers have the capacity to drive sales in the beer category."
The brewer will boost its speciality beers portfolio with the addition of three newcomers. Morello-cherry based Belle-Vue Kriek, raspberry-flavoured Belle-Vue Framboise and Hoegaarden Grand Cru join flagship brands Hoegaarden and Leffe. The range offers universal appeal according to Colin. "Fruit beers are very popular with women and can definitely rival RTDs. The female market tends to be an early indicator of new drinking experiences."
Interbrew will invest £1m in educating licensees about the speciality beer range, which will initially be listed in 15 premium outlets. The brewer aims to dominate a sector which it predicts will grow to five times its current size by 2013. Beer menus will be designed to accompany food events in a bid to compete with the success of other drinks sectors in associating themselves with cuisine. "The wine industry has done a superb job in promoting the drink as an accompaniment to food," admits Colin.
However, washing down your oysters with a bottle of Muscadet has not always been in vogue he says. "I can remember a time not too long ago when wine was little more than Blue Nun," he says. The big players in the beer trade must learn from the repositioning of wine as a premium product and natural partner to food, he says. "There is no question that speciality beers complement food superbly," Colin stresses. "We have to get that message through to customers and ensure that they get a top quality product."
Speciality beers can build the perception of beer as a premium product according to Interbrew. But the company accepts that it must ensure that customers receive their pints in perfect condition. Kevin Wood, operations manager for the speciality beers sector, says: "Beer is a very variable product so we will have to work hard to ensure it is received in perfect condition. This means training our bar staff to stringent standards." To assist their education, expert Belgian barmen will visit the UK to offer tips on storage and service of speciality brews.
After a brief tour of the Hoegaarden brewery, we return to Brussels ready for some hands-on beer and food matching. Over a pre-meal glass of Hoegaarden, beer writer Jeff Evans expresses his optimism for the future of speciality beers. "For so long the category has needed a kick up the backside," he explains. "Wine has held sway over the market for the past 20 years so it is good to see someone taking the drink seriously."
Jeff recommends Hoegaarden as an appetiser. "The beer is full of spice and invigorates the palate," he says. Our resident expert proves a valuable guide as we move onto Belgium waffles to start. "I think beers match a wide variety of foods," he says. "It's about finding the style that enhances your dining experience." Jeff tips Hoegaarden and Leffe Blonde, with their spicy characteristics, as good partners to our dish.
The main course is a traditional-style Belgium stew which should be matched with Leffe Brune, says Jeff: "The beer has a nose of dark malts and fruity flavours. It's an excellent partner to country dishes which are traditionally sweet and sour." The arrival of the sweets heralds the opening of bottles of Belle Vue Framboise and Kriek. "Fruit beers are a great match with fruit-based tarts or ice cream," explains Jeff. "They are a fine way to finish off a meal."
The Specials
Belle-Vue Framboise This raspberry-flavoured fruit beer is brewed at the Molenbeek brewery in the Lambic region of Belgium. The beer is fermented with wild yeast before the fruit is added. abv: 5.8% Match with: Fruit-based desserts and ice creams.
Belle-Vue Kriek Kriek is named after the Dutch word for morello cherries, the fruit ingredient from which it is made. The beer is brewed by adding cherries, morello cherries and elderberry juice to the production of normal filtered Belle-Vue Gueuze Lambic. abv: 5.3% Match with: Nut-based and general dessert dishes.
Hoegaarden The original Belgian white beer, which was first brewed in 1445. A versatile beer, brewed with the addition of coriander and Curacao orange peel.abv: 5% Match with: Pretty much everything. Spicy fruit flavours mean it is a good match at meal times.
Hoegaarden Grand Cru This is a tripel beer and is referred to as the "liquor of the beer world". Grand Cru's light golden colour belies a high alcohol content. The beer has a peachy appearance and offers a real depth of character.abv: 8.7% Match with: Rich, full-flavoured dishes such asgame, smoked meats and sausages.
Leffe Blonde Brewed near the abbey of Notre Dame de Leffe, this aromatic beer combines yeast characteristics with a fruity flavour. It is an aromatic and full-bodied beer. abv: 6.6% Match with: Full-flavoured and spicy Asian cuisine. Leffe Blonde also makes a great partner to seafood.
Leffe Brune This is a bitter version of sister beer Leffe Blonde. A rich, caramel aroma of roasted barley balances its bitter edge. The beer displays a touch of raisin fruit and brown sugar. abv: 6.5% Match with: Country dishes such as stews and casseroles.
