Ramsay's new pub puts 'F' in fantastic
There is one F-word to describe the food at Gordon Ramsay's new pub - fantastic.
Ramsay has played a blinder at East End pub the Narrow, located a mile from the City, by Limehouse Marina.
The customer's accents are more cut glass than cockney, but the menu nods to East End classics with dishes including London Particular (pea and ham soup)(£3), pie and mash(£8.50) and boiled salt beef and carrots(£9).
Like Gordon himself the food is no nonsense.
Classic British DishesDishes are served as simply as the crisp menu descriptions. Food presentation pushes all the right nostalgia buttons, from the school canteen-style brown pie dishes to the icing sugar sprinkled on your bakewell pudding, you could be back in granny's kitchen. The menu is focused on classic British dishes made with seasonal ingredients.
The pub, an S&NPE lease is located next to the Thames, with food served in both the bar and dining room. The bar menu includes the sexily simple whitebait (£5), mug of soup with crusty bread(£3.50) and soft herring roes on toast( £5). A private dining room, the Captain's table, is also available for hire.
There is a refreshingly good amount of space for drinkers too, with newspapers available for customers to settle into one of the smart armchairs with a drink and a paper. There are also numerous benches outside for drinkers to enjoy a pint or Pimms by the river.
We ate in the pub's 32-cover dining room which is furnished with dark wooden tables, nautical blue panelling covering the bottom half of the walls and dock maps highlighting the history of the area decorating the top. Menus allude to the area's history, including pictures of women enjoying ice cream by the Thames in 1932.
Informal SimplicityTables are laid up with informal simplicity with wooden salt and pepper mills and cutlery wrapped in napkins.
My starter of London Particular(pea and ham soup) was piping hot, full of flavour and made with handfuls of ham which at £3 was a bargain. My colleague opted for the country paté with homemade pickles(£.4,50)which was served with rustic simplicity with an accompanying slice of toast.
My main of cock-a-leekie pie with mash(£8.50) was a pie of perfection. Flaky pastry, as lightweight as England's performance against Israel, melted in the mouth and the chicken, leek and mushrooms combined as a holy trinity. The accompanying mash was as smooth as James Bond.
The blonde's braised Gloucester pig cheeks with bashed neeps(£9) were tender and tasty with the accompanying well-seasoned neeps a perfect partner. A side order of perfectly cooked crisp chips(£2.75) came in a silver tin pot with grease proof paper.
ValuePuddings were amazing value at less than a Lady Godiva. My original Bakewell pudding with custard(£4) was pastry perfect and full of zesty flavour. My colleague's gypsy tart(£4) was another hit with its moussey, with light filling melting in the mouth and the accompanying créme fraiche a great balance to the sweetness of the tart.
There are very few gastropubs where you come away feeling that the food was cheap, but the Narrow is one. With the gastropub norm seeming to be puddings nearing £6 and mains above £12, the excellent quality of food on offer at the Narrow is a steal of a deal.
There is no flash Gordon here. The food is served with honest simplicity with prices to match. Staff may not yet confidently own the floor and teething problems such as the credit card machine not working need ironing out but overall everything from the beer and bread to the bakewell was on the money.
Pub facts:
Address: 44 Narrow Street, London, E14, 0207 5927950 www.gordonramsay.com
On the bar menu: half/pint of Indian ocean prawns -(£3.50/6.50), whitebait (£5),mug of soup with crusty bread( £3.50), soft herring roes on toast(£5).
On the main menu:Starters: Potted Cromer crab with granary toast (£6), grilled Dorset mackerel with potato salad(£5), beetroot spring onion, radish and parsley salad (£4), country pate with homemade picalilli(£4.50),
On toast - all £4.50: Soft herring roes, devilled lamb's kidneys, sardines and tomatoes, and Welsh rarebit.
Mains: Monkfish and chips with marrow fat peas(£10.50), boiled salt beef with carrots and onions(£9), Rye Bay plaice with Morecambe brown shrimps(£10.50), Oxford lamb steaks. portobello mushroom and anchovy butter(£14.50), Lancashire cheese, leek and Romanesco flan(£8).
Puddings: Gypsy tart with creme fraiche(£4), Original Bakewell pudding(£4), Egg custard with Goosnargh cakes(£3.50) British cheese(£6), Rhubard and ginger crumble(£4.50), lemon and vanilla cheesecake with stewed bramley apples (£4)
Tea or coffee - £2.50
On the wine list:11 wines by the glass. Prices range from £13.50 to £75. English wine Chapel Down Bacchus Reserve is among those offered.
Beers on offer: London Pride, Meantime Wheat beer, Bishop's Finger, Corona.
