They do say there¹s nobody more zealous than a convert. Only six years ago, when he worked behind a bar between university studies, Ben Bagguley thought cask ale ³tasted disgusting².
³It was something the old boys drank and then complained about,² he says. Yet a few weeks ago Ben was crowned Master Cellarman of the Year by Fuller¹s and, he says, it¹s all down to his passion for cask beer.
He reappraised the product after he qualified in hospitality management and joined the London-based brewer as assistant manager of the Counting House in the City [of London], but it was only in 2002 when he took over his own pub, the Jugged Hare near Victoria, London, that ³the extra passion came into play².
In his first year of full responsibility for beer quality Ben became one of Fuller¹s elite Master Cellarmen, having scored 95 per cent-plus in four consecutive audits. Four years later, still at the Jugged Hare, he has gained the brewer¹s ultimate accolade, awarded by head brewer John Keeling.
Yet Ben is not your stereotypical real ale buff. He¹s young, for one thing, and outside of the Jugged Hare he sticks to lager ³I don¹t always trust the beer in other pubs,² he admits. And if he gets the chance to drink on-site he chooses Fuller¹s new golden ale Discovery, rather than the more traditional brews.
It¹s what the customers think that¹s really important to Ben, though. ³I¹ve built a reputation here for the beer and customers really appreciate it,² he says. As well as keeping the regulars happy, he enjoys introducing tourists to what a pint of good cask beer should really taste like.
³It¹s important that staff are passionate about it, too,² he adds. ³It¹s not just myself who¹s won this award, it¹s the whole team here.²
All barstaff are trained in beer appreciation. They know how each product should taste and can describe them to customers, especially important when a seasonal ale comes on. Most can change a barrel and two members have been through the Fuller¹s cellar management course.
That¹s backed up by a rigorous quality regime at the Jugged Hare. ³All cask ales are checked before they go on sale and if a product isn¹t right we take it off,² says Ben.
A lot of it comes down to routine. Line cleaning, for instance, is done at the same time each week Ben sets aside a morning at the weekend, the pub¹s quiet time. ³If you maintain strict standards, when something goes wrong you have a better chance of understanding why,² he says.
³There¹s always a temptation to blame the brewery, if an ale doesn¹t settle, for instance. But if you¹re positive it¹s the brewery¹s fault then send it back. Don¹t try to serve it anyway.²
Guest beers from a brewer with which you aren¹t familiar require special care. ³They may take longer to clear than you are used to and you need to make sure they are tasting the way they should,² he says. You get the impression that Ben¹s passion is not just for beer, but for quality. And that¹s a passion every licensee should have.