Inkin's Inn

For somebody who features prominently in The Gastropub Cookbook, it comes as something of a surprise that Charles Inkin hates "the G-word".

"It's a dreadfully generic term, isn't it?," says Inkin, who trained to be a chef at the Ballymaloe Cookery School near Cork in Southern Ireland before he opened the award-winning Felin Fach Griffin near Brecon, Powys, in 2001. Five years on and Inkin has opened a second business in Cornwall.

An early 17th-century coaching inn on the remote, windswept coastal path that runs between St Ives and Land's End, the Gurnard's Head is in a stunning area and is popular with walkers, tourists and city types looking for a place to get away from it all.

"The biggest selling point is the location," says Inkin. "You've got sea, you've got land. You can see why so many painters and writers have lived here."

Inkin used to visit the pub a few years ago when it had a good reputation for simple food such as chowders and stews. Its popularity with walkers has very much dictated what now appears on the menus.

At lunchtime, there's only a chalkboard offering hearty broths, sandwiches, home-made pork pies and fish and chips. In the evening, the printed menu features more

restaurant-style dishes.

"A lot of the people who stop off here have been walking all day," says Inkin. "It's the hardest part of the coastal path and a serious walk. When you get here, you want a proper feed, you want real food.

"Price-wise, we've followed the same ethos as we've done in Brecon. Everything is under

a tenner at lunchtime so that it's affordable to everyone.

"You can quite easily have two or three courses and walk away having spent less than £20 for a very good lunch."

This ethos has clearly paid off. In August - only the fourth month of trading - the pub served 3,000 meals.

Much of the pub's early success is due to the team around Inkin, many of whom arrived with him from Brecon. These include manager Andy Wood and a kitchen team headed up by Matt Williamson and Claire Thomson.

New Zealander Williamson used to work at the Greenhouse restaurant in London and Thomson worked at Bristol's organic restaurant, Quartier Vert.

The couple - who marry early next year - have been responsible for the seasonal menus and they have built up a small network of local suppliers.

Inkin says: "Matt and Claire are doing an extraordinary job. They're very 'earthy' people and they're relishing the fact that they can source so much local produce.

"We have a lady who has a smallholding nearby and she turns up with onions, garlic, pumpkins and leeks. Another guy came in yesterday and asked if we wanted any rabbits. Andy, our manager, caught four sea bass

off the cove last night and they're already on the menu.

"Eventually we hope to get a garden going here, as we did at the Griffin. A few local farmers have also said they'll grow certain stuff for us. We want to cut out the food miles as much as possible."

An extra dimension to the pub is the six bedrooms it has. With room rates averaging around £70, it's hardly surprising it achieved an occupancy of 95% throughout August.

The rooms are simple and tasteful, with handmade beds, white linen and expensive

toiletries.

"Our motto is the 'simple things in life done well' and it's so true. You've got to give people a really comfortable bed and all the other little bits and pieces.

"We've had emails from people asking where we get our beds. We get them handmade to order and they're not cheap, but they're extremely comfortable. We have

people staying for 10 nights or more."

But while the pub attracts its fair share of London weekenders, Inkin is adamant the Gurnard's Head will remain a pub for the farmers and locals who will keep the place going in the winter months.

"We've had immense support from the locals. Winters down here are harsh and I know it's going to be difficult, but I'm already planning to hold Scrabble nights and even

a film night. We'll also have live music twice

a week.

"I was warned not to turn this into a

Notting Hill-by-sea and I have no intention of doing that."

The wine list

All wines at the Gurnard's Head are supplied by Bibendum. The list features 12 whites, 11 reds, two pinks and three Champagnes. There are 11 wines available by the glass.

Charles Inkin decided to keep the price of all wines at less than £20 to increase sales. "By not marking the wines up three times or whatever, our cash margin on wine is

deliberately reduced because we want

people to drink them," he says.

"People have a right to enjoy a decent bottle of wine."

On the menu

Lunch

Home-made pork pie £5.50

Ham hock and pearl barley broth £4

Gurkha mackerel curry £8

Dinner

Mussels and bacon chowder £4.50

Skate wing, pancetta, parsley, capers and potato £13.50

Valrhona chocolate torte, cherry and star anise sauce, vanilla ice cream £4.95