Bottled brands

Every summer there is a drinks brand that becomes a must-have on the nation's bar tops. This summer saw pubs clamouring to stock Magners - the cider brand that has taken the country by storm. However, in this age of superbrands and big-money marketing, no wine brand has ever had the same effect. While a customer will walk into a pub and without thinking will order a Stella or a Carling, rather than "a pint of lager", wine has yet to develop a power brand.

A recent study by Constellation Europe, which owns wine brands such as Hardy's, Stowells and Banrock Station, found that 89 per cent of drinkers were open to the idea of buying brands they'd seen in supermarkets or in a pub. The lack of brand loyalty in pubs, then, seems to be down to a combination of supermarket competition, wine's profile and lack of promotion.

While consumers identify with and buy branded wines in supermarkets, their affinity for brands has not made a smooth transition to pubs. Tim Bird, operations director at Eldridge Pope, says: "Probably part of the reason that brands don't sell so well in pubs is because people see them in supermarkets and automatically do a price comparison. While people do allow for adding on a bit, they don't take in the full picture, such as energy costs and staff wages."

He also thinks that while some consumers will welcome the reassurance of a brand they recognise, others appreciate the diversity offered by producers they're not familiar with, particularly in more upmarket outlets. He says: "The wine list shouldn't be dominated by brands because it's nice to be taken on a journey. People enjoy the balance of the obscure with the familiar."

Licensee Nick Atfield from the Bell Inn in Walberswick, Suffolk, agrees with this. He says: "With beer, people recognise a name and order it, but the range of wines is enormous and people are keen to try different grape varietals and ones that they wouldn't necessarily see in the supermarket."

Fiona Bryson, a wine specialist who advises licensees in Adnams pubs, says that the reason that wine brands don't sell en masse is down to their profile; people choose their wine by grape type rather than by producer. "People go for grapes they recognise, like a pinot grigio or a chardonnay, rather than choosing a wine by its brand. It's the way that customers understand choosing wine in a pub," she says.

She also thinks that there is a certain cachet for some people in finding something from a small producer, particular in upmarket outlets, which are slightly more reluctant to embrace brands. "There is perhaps a bit of a snobbery from people who like to discover great wines from unknown producers," says Fiona.

Tim Yeo, licensee at the Black Tiles in Woodbridge, Suffolk, adds: "There is a feeling that to be branded is to be like following sheep. If an establishment only stocks brands, then it might not look inventive. Not everyone likes to follow brands, some like to make a find and then recommend it to people."

Some changes appear to be afoot, though. Constellation Europe is encouraged by the results of its research, which suggests there is an untapped market of people who drink wine at home, but not at the pub.

The company believes that these people may be more susceptible to brand promotions moving into the draught wine market. Selling Stowells on draught has proved to be a success for Constellation, and now the Australian brand Banrock Station is being trialled as a draught wine across the JD Wetherspoon estate.

Pernod Ricard, which also owns wine brands such as Jacob's Creek, has been working on ensuring they have the right product fit for different types of outlets. Jon Ellis, Pernod Ricard UK's marketing manager, says: "We have carried out a segmentation study to ensure the right product fit for different types of outlets. This is supported with customer marketing initiatives to increase visibility at the bar, and the education of our sales team and barstaff to enable them to sell wine more effectively and communicate the portfolio in an engaging way to consumers."

Ultimately, though, with so many different reasons for choosing wine from different types of consumers, and so many producers fighting it out to be stocked in pubs, seeing a power wine brand is probably unlikely. As Constellation's UK trading director, Dan Townsend, says: "It's unlikely that the on-trade wine category will ever replicate the beer category with the existence of a few 'powerhouse' brands.

"Consumers want different wines for different occasions and therefore demand an offering with a good selection of varietals and pack types across a wide range of price points to match these occasions."