Toast to an iconic Aussie brewer - by Roger Protz

The mood in the industry is that the family brewing sector is doomed.

The gloom-mongers point to the recent disappearance of Gale's and

Ridley's as proof of their case. The controversial departure of Young's from London to Bedford, with question marks over whether the former Wandsworth beers will be swallowed by Charles Wells, adds fuel to the flames.

But family brewers can survive, as Bateman's, and more recently McMullen's, show. What is needed are passion and belief in brewing and a determination to see off predators.

A brilliant example of such passion and determination comes from Australia. Cooper's Brewery in Adelaide, South Australia, is family-owned, with the fourth and fifth generations running a company founded in 1862.

Thomas Cooper, from Skipton, Yorkshire, emigrated to Australia with his wife in 1852. A Methodist lay preacher, he disapproved of drinking, but his wife was the daughter of an innkeeper and she brewed at home. Thomas turned his hand to making the demon drink when his wife fell ill. His neighbours were impressed with his home brew and encouraged him to set up as a commercial brewer.

His business opened in 1862, and was

successful enough to prompt a move to bigger premises a few years later. When his first wife died, Thomas remarried and produced 16

children - sufficient to keep the brewery in family hands for generations to come.

Despite the rapid growth of lager in the 20th century, Cooper's remained remarkably faithful to the pale ales and stouts perfected by its founder. Cooper's beers - particularly its

Sparkling Ale - were seen as quirky oddities and were largely confined to South Australia.

Then the impact of the Campaign for Real Ale (Camra) in Britain was felt as far away as Australia. Cooper's beers began to sell beyond the boundaries of their native state and became widely available in both bottle and keg. Beers with live yeast, both in bottle and on draught, offered a tasteful alternative to the likes of Foster's and XXXX.

But success brings dangers and last year a big drinks conglomerate came calling. Lion Nathan originated in New Zealand and grew rapidly by purchasing breweries and brands owned by disgraced Australian entrepreneur Alan Bond.

Lion Nathan now owns Aussie brands and breweries Castlemaine, Hahn, Swan, Malt

Shovel and South Australian Brewing as well as the leading Kiwi beer Steinlager. Major Japanese brewing group Kirin bought a 46% stake in Lion Nathan and this new Asian and Australasian giant was determined to grow by swallowing rivals. Cooper's was high on their list as a clear competitor to Lion Nathan's South Australian Brewing group.

Last year Lion Nathan offered Cooper's $260, later increased to a tempting $310 a share for its brewery, which is not listed on stock exchanges. The Cooper family, which owns nearly all the shares, could have pocketed a tidy sum and retired on the proceeds.

But at an Extraordinary General Meeting of Cooper's last December, the latest offer was rejected by 93.4% of family shareholders.

The Aussies appear to back an underdog

as much as the Brits - Cooper's remains

independent and its beer sales have surged as a result of its battle with Lion Nathan.

Cooper's beers account for a quarter of the market in South Australia, growing at 10% a year. And popularity is spreading - national sales have grown by 14%, with growth of 50% in Western Australia and 40% in Queensland in the past year.

Executive chairman Glen Cooper said: "Lion Nathan's bid hasn't affected sales; it has helped increase knowledge of Cooper's inter-state."

Every good pub should take a stock and encourage drinkers to raise a glass to the gutsy family Down Under that saved an iconic brewery. Cooper's Sparkling Ale, Original Pale Ale and Best Extra Stout are available from Pierhead Wines: www.pierheadwines.co.uk.

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