On the Grapevine

With Philip Goodband MW, Constellation Europe.​

Philip Goodband is not only a Master of Wine but also has real 'hands on' experience at every level of the wine industry, with a special interest in the on-trade. His achievements include responsibility for the launch and development of the top performing Stowells brand and he was managing director of Grants of St James's.

The person submitting the 'Star Question' as chosen by Philip each month will receive a bespoke training session for their outlet run by Constellation Europe.

Send your wine questions to Philip Goodband c/o The Publican, Ludgate House, 245 Blackfriars Road, London SE1 9UY or via email: wine@thepublican.com.

This month, the star question comes from Ken Harris​

Organising a menu​

• Where should one put rosé in a short two-page wine list?​
  Kate Moorby at the William IV in Horsley​

The short answer to your question is after the white wines, which I imagine will be on the right-hand side of the fold. The logic for this is that rosé wines can come in any shade of sweetness so it is best to position them just before the sweet wines and sparklers. Rosé is back in fashion and with spring now here, your sales should soar.

A turn of the screw​

• Why are we seeing so many producers switching to screwtops? Many of my customers see screwtop wine as cheap wine!​
  Phillip Hayton at the Buck Inn in Thirsk​

For many, the popping of a cork is part of the ritual of wine drinking and helps to build the anticipation and enjoyment. This is absolutely right, but over the past decades, due to increased sales, pressure on oak forests and insufficient attention to faults we had an increased incidence of "mustiness" (corked wine). Many wine producers and brand owners looked around to find a better solution. After all, their skills were being ruined by the faulty corks! Competition between synthetic and screwtops has now led to the cork producers getting their act together to improve matters, but in the meantime the New Zealanders decided almost to a man to start using the screwtops as they had been found to be a perfect seal for their lively, zesty sauvignon blancs without the risk of taint. This has, in turn, led to many more wines from other areas deserting natural cork for synthetic stoppers or the screw. In the medium term we will have a mix of all kinds of stopper and I am glad to say far fewer problem bottles.

Surplus of dessert wine​

• What should I do with a stack of dessert wines such as Orange Muscat?​
  Ken Harris at the Seven Stars in Shincliffe, Durham​

A glance at your website tells me you have a charming inn with a reputation for good food and hospitality. With all those good hearty meals you are serving the answer could be to make a feature of the sweet wine by the glass as a special offer with your desserts. These wines go brilliantly with traditional English puddings and can be surprisingly tasty with semi-soft cheeses. Why not have some fun food-tasting with your staff? In many instances I have also found dessert wines being offered as an alternative to port, and being lower in alcohol are often welcomed by the customers at the end of the meal. Whatever you do it is important to encourage trial, so a little "try before you buy" goes down well and builds goodwill too. The supplier may be able to help with point-of-sale material so don't forget some merchandising (hand written is fine) with the menu or on the blackboard.

For further information on World of Wine telephone 0845 430 8947 or email vasb@jbeyq-bs-jvar.pb.hx​​