Roasted calves liver with sage salsa verde, caper, raisins, new potatoes and crispy ham (James Durrant, the Plough Inn, Longparish, Hampshire)
The match: Camfell Flame, Wharfe Bank, Wharfedale, West Yorkshire
Why it works: “This award-winning ruby premium ale is bursting with flavour with its complex mix of malts, providing a delicious contrast to the delicate, subtle flavours of the liver without overpowering it.”
Current Top 50 Gastropubs ranking: 4
Slip sole grilled in seaweed butter (Stephen Harris, the Sportsman, Seasalter, Kent)
The match: Citra Nova, The Durham Brewery, Bowburn, Co Durham
Why it works: “This pale bitter has a full flavour which gives a satisfying contrast to the mild flavours, while the underlying citrus acts like a lemon, complementing the fish.”
Current Top 50 Gastropubs ranking: 1
Breasts of woodpigeon with beetroot and balsamic vinegar (Mark Dodson, the Masons Arms, Knowstone, Devon)
The match: Good Old Boy,
West Berkshire Brewery, Thatcham, Berkshire
Why it works: “The blend of rich malted barley and fruity notes means this classic bitter is well-balanced and full-flavoured, standing up to the deep, complex and earthy flavours of the wood pigeon.”
Current Top 50 Gastropubs ranking: 39
Saltmarsh hogget and cockle pie with samphire, creamed mash and lamb gravy (Stosie Madi, the Parkers Arms, Newton-in-Bowland, Lancashire)
The match: Late Red, Shepherd Neame, Faversham, Kent
Why it works: “This ale has a rich, dark malt flavour which provides a tasty backdrop to the hogget, while the spiciness and dryness contrasts with the creamy mash and lamb gravy.”
Current Top 50 Gastropubs ranking: 41
Sticky walnut pudding with salted caramel sauce and stout ice cream (Josh Eggleton, the Pony & Trap, Chew Magna, Somerset)
The match: Old Henry, Hobsons Brewery, Cleobury Mortimer, Shropshire
Why it works: “This rich, auburn ale — with its complex flavours — goes perfectly with the richness of the pudding, while the clean finish cleanses the palate in between bites, leaving you wanting more.”
Current Top 50 Gastropubs ranking: 2
Top 50 Gastropubs is sponsored by Estrella Damn, with associated partners including Schweppes, Appletiser and Berkmann Wine Cellar.