INDIE BEER MASTERCLASS: Nitro stout

Neil Walker (top right) picks out some independent nitro stouts
Richer tasting beers: Neil Walker (top right) picks out some independent nitro stouts (Credit: SIBA)

There’s been so much written recently about pints of the ‘Black Stuff’ running short across the UK that you would think it’s the only nitro stout available.

However, this beer style has been quietly growing in popularity for the past few years – all kicked off by stouts and porters being the most popular beer style during Covid lockdown according to figures from the Society of Independent Brewers and Associates (SIBA).

So it’s no wonder that when people were allowed back in to the pub they were increasingly reaching for something dark and flavoursome.

But what is nitro stout and why has it seen such a huge surge in popularity?

In the first of a new regular feature beer sommelier Neil Walker, the man behind SIBA’s Indie Beer campaign, talks us through the category and why it’s a beer your customers are seeking out.

Anyone that has changed a keg of nitro stout will know that it uses a different gas mix to lagers and pale ales, generally requiring 70:30 gas that has a high proportion of nitrogen in the mix, but why is this? And what does it do to the flavour?

The biggest impact of using nitrogen over CO2 is on the texture and mouthfeel of the beer, as nitrogen gas molecules are much smaller than carbon dioxide, they create smaller bubbles, which lead to a tighter head and smoother mouthfeel.

Nitrogen also rounds out the bitterness of a beer, muting the hop character and accentuating sweeter malt flavours, leading to the impression of a creamier tasting pint.

Nitrogenated beers have not always had the best reputation thanks to the rise and fall of ‘smoothflow’ bitters and other nitro beers lacking flavour, but independent breweries have in recent years used the technology to full effect, creating some superb tasting beers.

Below you’ll find my pick of some of the best nitro stouts currently available in the UK.

Anspach & Hobday – London Black (4.4% ABV)

This nitro porter, the parent style of stout, is a nod to London’s porter brewing heritage and has everything your customers love about Guinness with an added oomph of flavour. Smooth, lightly roasted malt flavours with a cocoa powder background note, London Black is a real crowd-pleaser. In fact, this super sessionable beer and has grown to be Anspach & Hobday’s best-seller, now accounting for over 70% of its production.

Harviestoun – Nitro Engine (4.5% ABV)

A session-strength nitro version of their hugely popular ‘Old Engine Oil’ stout, Nitro Engine has a great coffee flavour and a touch more bitterness in the finish than other nitro stouts I’ve tasted, but remains smooth and drinkable. A great choice if you’re looking for something a bit more flavoursome from your stout offering.

Timothy Taylor’s & Northern Monk – Northern Rising (4.4% ABV)

This collaboration between Yorkshire’s Timothy Taylor’s and Northern Monk is incredibly versatile and works superbly well in a range of formats - tasting great from keg, cask or can. Full-bodied and nicely rounded it’s got a lovely caramel background note and a super smooth finish. A great option for cask-focused pubs or those looking for a more interesting nitro stout.

Siren – Broken Dream Breakfast Stout (6.5% ABV)

Despite the name, at 6.5% ABV, this isn’t a beer for customers to enjoy alongside a full English. This is a much bigger, richer tasting nitro stout with robust flavours of coffee, dark chocolate, and a smooth milkshake-like texture. Brewed with carefully selected espresso beans and milk sugars, the bold flavours are rounded out beautifully by the nitro serve, making this big beer dangerously drinkable.

Bullhouse – Big Fish Small Pond (4.2% ABV)

This take on the dry Irish stout style from Northern Ireland’s Bullhouse Brew Co is an aptly named attempt at taking on the dominance of Guinness in the local and UK market. With a delicious roastiness, a big body and smooth mouthfeel, it’s got all the hallmarks of the style but more going on – and by choosing this beer or any of the others on this list, you’re supporting the indie breweries customers are increasingly seeking out.

  • Neil Walker is a beer sommelier and Head of Communications at SIBA, the Society of Independent Brewers & Associates, which recently launched the much-heralded Indie Beer campaign. The campaign seeks to make it easier for customers to discover beer from genuine independent breweries and you can find out more via www.indiebeer.uk