But in that period, the chef and his ambitious team have gone from strength to strength, being listed among the country’s Top 50 Gastropubs.
Despite being a tenancy (with pubco St Austell), Hooker hasn’t held back on making investments, such as installing a new kitchen and developing the pub’s extensive outdoor area. Further plans are under way to add a series of rooms to the pub so as to make the absolute most of the space.
Well-cooked
Hooker’s food is extraordinarily well-cooked and treats the surrounding area’s superb produce with the respect it deserves. Menu highlights include a remarkably succulent portion of ox cheek with whipped horseradish and a deliciously rich ‘Arnold Bennett’ smoked fish and chive omelette.
And while the quality of the cooking rivals, and indeed outshines, that of many fine-dining restaurants, portion sizes at the Cornish Arms won’t leave customers feeling hard done by. The opposite is the case: the Cornish Arms’ menu is competitively priced, making it accessible not just for those who want to splash the cash, but customers who just want a quick bite.
But the Cornish Arms is still a pub. It’s frequented by diners, long-standing regulars, revellers, sports fans and local darts players and provides a quality offer to meet all needs.