Critics have been quick to write it off as posh stock or as yet more East London foodie hipster runoff - there's even an automated twitter account dedicated to tweeting a sardonic "it's called 'stock'." at anyone who uses the name of the dish in a tweet.
To be fair to the critics, it’s made in essentially the same way; by boiling and simmering bones with a combination of herbs, spices and vegetables for a lengthy period of time. But whether or not you’re turned off at the prospect of bone broth, as a trend it’s in full swing.
The dish is already being championed as the next big thing by The Art of Eating Well authors Jasmine and Melissa Hemsley and New York, who called it “delicious, soothing and easy to make”.
They told The Guardian: “Nutritionally, it’s a champion all-rounder, packed with protein, vitamins, minerals, collagen and keratin.”
In an even weirder turn of events, New York City will see its first bone broth festival, Broth Fest, take place later this month.
"I would say that [interest in bone broth] has grown as part of the trends for 'Dude Food' and for an increased interest in the artisan production of foods," says Simon Stenning, executive director at Allegra Foodservice.
Bony benefits
For operators, making and selling bone broth can be incredibly lucrative given the cheapness of required ingredients. Bones are largely unwanted by butchers and can be purchased at a minimal price.
The menu at London pop-up eatery the Wild Game Co. features a bone broth concocted by founder Andy Waugh and head chef Mikkel Toftgaard Gregersen.
“It’s a really tasty way to get so many great health benefits and boost your mood at the same time,” says Waugh. “People love the variety that we have on the go and that everything is sustainable; this week is pigeon or venison, next week will be chicken.”
Commercial broth
And it’s not just foodservice seeing an increase in demand for bone broth. Soup supplier Lodge Farm Kitchen recently released two bone broth variants to independent retailers.
Company director Louisa Stout recently told The Grocer: “A few brands have been launched in the States but we believe we are the firs to launch a commercially produced brand here.
“Bone broth is as old as the hills, but with our increasingly frenetic lifestyles, we no longer have time to make our own.”