Pubs with a flash of genius

Some of the industry's top gastropub operators talk to PubChef about which food concepts and places have inspired them and how they have used that inspiration in their own businesses.

Warm and welcoming​

Tom Martin, owner, gastropub operator ETM Group

Inspired by: the Crispin Inn near Deal, Kent, and the Drunken Duck, Cumbria

Why inspiring?: Every lunchtime the Crispin Inn was packed and the owners would always be there on the front side of the bar drinking and chatting with their locals and regulars. There were roaring log fires, exposed brick walls with hanging pictures all around and excellent pub food being served. My brother Ed and I were too young to drink at the time, but I'm sure the ale would have been some of the finest available. The Drunken Duck Inn in the Lake District is also one of my favourite pubs of all time, due to its knowledgeable staff, very good quality food and wine, and a very well-presented pub with rooms in a beautiful setting.

Lessons learned: They remain in our memory as being among the most warm and welcoming English pubs I've ever been to. We have tried to recreate all of this in our collection of pubs and restaurants, while maintaining individuality in each.

Eagle eyes​

Michael Belben, gastropub pioneer, owner, the Eagle, Farringdon, London

Inspired by: Orso, London.

Why inspiring?: I have my ex-boss Christina Smith to thank for pointing out to me how the light fittings in this Italian offshoot of Joe Allen, in Covent Garden, weren't uniform and neither were the shades. Tricia Guild's beautiful Tuscan crockery was equally unusual.

Lessons learned: I was determined to emulate this style on a tiny budget. Victorian meat plates, bone-handled cutlery and big red lamp shades fitted the bill.

Inspired by: Smith's of Covent Garden

Why inspiring?: Smith's Restaurant occupied the basement of the Seven Dials warehouse that later became Belgo. It was a home for some of Christina Smith's extensive collection of modern art. She hosted the annual sale for the Contemporary Art Society in the galleries upstairs.

Lessons learned: I recognised that that there can be a strong link between art and restaurant culture, and as a result established a gallery above the Eagle.

Christina also taught me some basic skills in floristry, which I employ at the Eagle.

Inspired by: River Café, London

Why inspiring?: Undoubtedly the biggest influence on us when we opened. We knew people who worked there, and I'd worked briefly with Rose Gray at Smith's

in Covent Garden. What impressed us was how they broke down the barriers between the kitchen and front of house. Waiters would help with the prep, and understand the menu as a result. Chefs would get along with their helpers. A 'family' would prepare your food, and eat the same menu for staff lunch.

Lessons learned: It was incredibly expensive, and we made it our mission to bring this kind of food culture to the masses at an affordable price. All we needed was a venue where we could stick in a six burner, a grill, a couple of fridges, low lights, world music, and shabby chic furniture with crockery to match.

California dreaming​

Jillian MacLean, managing director, Drake & MorganInspired by: SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills, designed by Philippe Starck and Jose Andres (chef).

Why inspiring?: The design is wonderful, combining eight concepts under one roof — it has wow factors, including a tea salon, Asian fusion restaurant, spa, mixology bars etc. It is a timeless and elegant hotel.

Lessons learned: Drake & Morgan strives to give customers something new and different too, be it a deli, wine-to-go or pop-up shop etc. All venues need to evolve and this is a philosophy that we really believe in.

Inspired by: Michael Mina, San Francisco, California

Why inspiring?: He has a number of restaurants and his cooking is inspired. It's Asian fusion using fantastic ingredients and with exciting presentation. Michael also offers a cigar and Bourbon pairing — small touches that make a big difference for guests.

Lessons learned: Drake & Morgan also takes pride in detail. From hot cocktails in thermos flasks to hot-water bottles and warm winter blankets for guests, a thoughtful touch goes a long way and we are constantly looking for new and exciting things to provide for our guests.

Stateside ideas​

Chris Gerard,managing director, Innventure

Inspired by: American restaurant chains such as Lettuce Entertain You, Houston steak restaurants and Outback Steakhouse.

Why inspiring?: You come across individuals in those places who are truly excited about the product — completely thrilled. They can wax lyrical about the coleslaw and really mean it.

Lessons learned: They were able to provide a great model for me and showed that if you can be excited about what you're doing then sales will follow. And Outback Steakhouse gave me the idea for the managing partner model we employ at Innventure, where our managers are highly incentivised — we give them 20% of the bottom line — to deliver a world-class operation.

Café culture​

Stephen Terry, chef-owner, the Hardwick, Abergaveny

Inspired by: the River Café, London

Why inspiring?: They have such a pure Italian philosophy of seasonality and simplicity, using the best quality ingredients at their peak. Whenever I visit, their service is so competent and relaxed, it feels like they have as much pleasure in cooking the food as the guests do in eating it.

Lessons learned: Here at the Hardwick we use the best quality, seasonal and local ingredients that we can lay our hands on and follow the same ideas of simplicity — letting the food and dishes speak for themselves. We call it 'Ronseal' cooking, as it does exactly what it says on the menu. There are no surprise foams or smokes etc.

The relaxed, comfortable and pleasurable experience for all in our establishment is very important to my business, and we aim to be welcoming and accommodating to all who visit and give them the best we possibly can. I took all the staff for lunch at River Café, not only to show them my favourite restaurant, but to illustrate what I would like to achieve at our restaurant.

Going Soho​

Ben McKellar,director, Gingerman Group

Inspired by: The Soho House Group. Soho House is a collection of bars, restaurants and hotels that started in Soho, London, and has now grown to around 10 major sites around the world (including Miami, New York and Berlin).

Why inspiring?: I first visited Soho House in about 2000 and was very impressed with the laid-back sophistication of it, and it helped me identify what elements to focus on when I was in the process of setting up my own business.

Lessons learned: From when I first visited the company I noticed that they had friendly staff, good food (which is not pretentious) and great interior design; these are all things that we have been keen to reproduce in our own company. We still use Soho

House today as a benchmark for our business.

Big Apple ideas​

Lee Cash, founder, Peach Pub Company

Place: Danny Meyer's Hospitality Group in New York. Sites include Union Square Cafe and Blue Smoke.

Why inspiring?: Their philosophy has inspired some of the training we use. I love the ethic of the business. The cookie cutterness of the brand is the way they deliver hospitality. Whether you are a fine dining restaurant or a cafe, the ethic in the way you provide hospitality is the brand.

Lessons learned: You should work in the business not on it and 24/7 there is always a way to use your time. You have to make sure you and your guys are doing that and investing time to do things like checking out new places.

Place: Nick Jones' businesses (Soho House etc)

Why inspiring?: I really respect people when they are in tune with their sector. Nick Jones does that brilliantly. I love his places. He knows who he is going for and the things that get them going. It is really intuitive stuff.

Lessons learned: We try and use this approach with our pub events. We h