Pub food: Shell out on oysters

It's hard to believe oysters are thought of as a sensual, sexy food. The squidgy saltwater bivalve encased in a coarse grey shell must be one of the...

It's hard to believe oysters are thought of as a sensual, sexy food. The squidgy saltwater bivalve encased in a coarse grey shell must be one of the most unattractive aphrodisiacs going.

But you can't deny the mollusc's versatility; they can be eaten raw, boiled, baked, and grilled - any way you like really.

Back in the 19th century, oysters were a staple in the diet of the poor, with beef and oyster pies being a popular Victorian dish, the oyster element primarily used to bulk out the pie. But nowadays oysters are seen as more of a delicacy of the wealthy, enjoyed with a glass of bubbly.

But Bruce Davidson says this is all changing. Davidson is the managing director of Loch Fyne Oysters Ltd.

It produces over 2.5 million rock oysters every year, most of them cultivated by the company at Loch Fyne in Scotland.

"Historically they were the food of the masses," Davidson confirms. "Then because of over-fishing and industrialisation to some extent, oysters became a luxury high-end item with a strong association with champagne. But now, demand is growing again."

Old-school food

Richard Emans runs the Maldon Oyster Company in Essex. He agrees that demand is gaining momentum, and says that the return of old-school food is the driving force:

"Traditional food is making a comeback. Twenty years ago you couldn't give pig's trotters away, now it's on the menus of London's top restaurants," he explains.

Davidson puts growth down to the public's changing attitudes: "People are becoming more adventurous, and with the popularity of food programmes, they are more willing to try new things," he says.

And that's reflected in Loch Fyne's distribution this summer. Davidson supplied oysters for the Edinburgh Festival, as well as the T in the Park music festival in Scotland, and the Latitude festival in Suffolk. Not exactly venues of the champagne-guzzling upper classes. "They're appealing to quite a wide and young audience," says Davidson.

The diminishing upper class image of the molluscs means they can be a great addition to a pub menu. "There is an element of a spectacle when you eat an oyster," Davidson says. "The theatrical nature of opening them is perfect in the atmosphere of a pub."

Up for trying new things

The Fox & Anchor in Central London is famed for focusing its food offering on traditional fare. Among the popular servings are Maldon rock and native oysters, which they serve with shallot vinegar and Tabasco sauce.

Licensee Scott Malaugh brought oysters onto the menu three years ago, with a great success. "We order about 50 every day from our suppliers," he says. "The clientele we have in the city centre are more astute about the finer things in life, and are up for trying new things."

For any publican planning to introduce oysters to their menu, Malaugh warns that it's quite a difficult balance to get right.

"They have a very short shelf life," he cautions, "and the success of our oysters is in part down to the nature of the pub itself and our location. Oysters have got a bit of a cult following - people either love them or they hate them."

Indeed, eating oysters raw can be an intimidating feat for anyone who has never done it before, and this might render them a less popular dish on a pub menu as a result. But oysters can also be enjoyed cooked, for example, in dishes such as pies.

"People do get slightly nervous eating their first one, as it is technically a live animal," Davidson agrees. "Often cooking them is a good way of easing newcomers into oysters."

This, Malaugh believes, is a happy medium for getting people into oysters. That's why steak and oyster pies are a recurring feature on the Fox & Anchor menu. "They are a lot more palatable in a pie as you aren't taking in the full flavour," he says.

"We cheat a bit and leave the oysters on the side, so if customers want to they can put them into the pie, or just have the pie without them."

But whatever way they are served, oysters are a great alternative to fatty pub grub, and this could be an inventive way of tapping into the more health-conscious customer base.

"They taste so natural and fresh; there is a clear taste of the sea in an oyster. As a 100 per cent natural product that takes nutrition from the environment, it's not like eating fried food or a heavy burger," says Davidson. "What's more, they're low in fat - which is perfect because everyone is so concerned with health and weight issues nowadays."

Nutritional benefits

• Six rock oysters will provide 43 per cent of the recommended daily amount (RDA) of omega 3, which is essential for a healthy heart

• High in protein

• 100g of raw oysters provide:

• Zinc - which is used in the production of testosterone and explains why oysters, which are particularly rich in zinc, are often cited as having aphrodisiacal properties.

• Vitamin B12 - which is good for a healthy brain and blood.

• Iron - which plays a vital role in keeping oxygen levels in the blood up.

• 20 per cent of the RDA of vitamin D, essential for a healthy heart and immune system.

• Low in fat - 1.3g per 100g and only 65 calories per 100g.

Source: the Shellfish Association of Great Britain

Beef and oyster pie - recipe by Loch Fyne Oysters

Ingredients

Olive oil
2 onions, diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 tbsp flour
1.2kg beef, diced
375ml Loch Fyne Ale
500ml beef stock
6 large Loch Fyne oysters
500g ready-made butter puff pastry
1 egg, beaten

Method

1. In a large pan, heat a little olive oil and gently fry onions and garlic until softened. Remove from pan and set aside.

2. In a bowl, season flour and toss the beef in it. Brown meat in batches, then put it all in the pan with onions, wine and stock. Bring to boil, season, cover, reduce heat and simmer for two hours or until meat is tender and sauce has thickened.

3. Transfer beef to a pie dish and lay shucked oysters on top.

4. Roll out pastry and cover dish, sealing edges with a little beaten egg. Make some small cuts in the top of the pie, then brush lid with beaten egg

5. Bake for 30 minutes, until golden.

Grilled oysters with parmesan and garlic - recipe by Maldon Oysters

Ingredients