Wherever you go in Belfast you are still never far from talk of the Troubles. Whether it be a taxi driver explaining his views, or a friendly passer-by pointing out the most bombed hotel in Europe, memories of the conflict that raged in the city from 1969 until the late 1990s still hang in the air.
But since the ceasefire, Northern Ireland's capital has enjoyed a considerable resurgence. Walking around some of the main areas of the city, it feels like any other bustling European urban space, with the usual high street retail names you would expect to see. And the sense of optimism is almost tangible.
The emergence of tourism
One interesting way the city has benefitted from the prolonged period of relative peace is a rise in the number of cruiseliners now stopping at the seaport. In short, tourist operators now regard it as a safe stop-off. And where there's thirsty tourists, there's money to be made - as pubs have witnessed.
Kris Nixon, manager at Whites Tavern in the city centre, said the amount of tourists that now flood into Belfast is a "fantastic boost".
"In the last few years we've definitely seen a change," he said. "The council even sends out a calendar now of when cruiseliners will be in the docks, which helps. And some have 2,000-plus tourists on them. As we're the oldest pub in Belfast we get a tremendous kick-back."
Gerry Webb, manager at legendary Belfast venue the Botanic Inn, affectionately known as 'The Bot', agreed the city has become "more popular" in recent years. However, with this has come increased competition.
"There are more places out there for people to visit, like coffee shops, so you have to keep your eye on the ball," he said.
But due to Northern Ireland's unique licensing laws, this competition
should not get out of hand. Any new pub or off-licence can not sell alcohol until an existing venue surrenders its licence - a system known as the surrender principle, which has capped the number of licences to just over 2,000.
But though Belfast's pub scene is in many ways unique, it still suffers from the same issues as outlets across
the Irish Sea. Many licensees cite the impact of the recession and supermarket pricing as factors that have hampered trade.
The recession
Gerry has noticed that punters are looking for more deals as the downturn has taken hold. Meanwhile, he's found the cost of off-trade booze has also affected people's drinking habits.
"People are definitely coming out later as there's lots more offers in the off-trade," he said. "They'll have a drink before they come out and the recession has made this problem worse for us."
Kris at Whites Tavern agrees. "People are drinking later than just a couple of years ago," he said. And the solution, in Kris' view? "Minimum pricing would be fantastic if they brought it in."
More cheering news, however, is that the North Ireland Tourist Board is set to spend £1m on marketing this spring in an effort to attract even more visitors from the Republic.
So, aside from the familiar gripes, for pubs that can ride out the economic storm it appears there is a bright, peaceful, future ahead.
Gerry Webb is manager at the Botanic Inn and has worked there for 25 years. It is the flagship venue of Belfast company Botanic Inns.
How much will a drink cost me?
Guinness is £3 a pint. Most lagers are £3 a pint, apart from Budweiser (£3.20) and Warsteiner (£3.60). A pint of Magners is £3.20. A 375ml measure of house red or white is £3.50 and a 35ml measure of Smirnoff is £2.15. Pepsi by the glass is £1.35.
Do you do food?
Yes. The Famous Bot Burgers are popular and handmade using prime Irish beef. An original Bot Burger is £5.95 while a Deluxe burger, covered in cheese and topped with bacon, is £6.95. Other favourites include fish & chips (£6.95) and steak & Guinness pie (£6.95).
Who are your customers?
We cater for everyone from the local community to students to business types. We have a front bar for our regulars and a nightclub upstairs.
What attracts people?
I think it's the atmosphere really, people feel safe. It's the sort of place where you might come on your own and you'd meet someone and get talking. We also have a wide selection of drinks, which draws people in.
What are the issues affecting trade in Belfast?
The economic climate means that people are looking for a lot more value for money these days. Drinking habits have also changed. People come out later as there are a lot more offers in the off-trade now. This is something that's got worse since the recession.
Brian Rogan is a supervisor at city centre venue the Kitchen Bar, which is regarded as a Belfast institution.
The Kitchen Bar, which dates back to 1859, was relocated to an old converted warehouse to make way for the Victoria Square shopping development.
How much will a drink cost me?
We do pensioner pints, which are £2.60. Pints of lager, Guinness and bottled beers are all £3.10. A Bacardi Breezer is £3.40. A Coke is £1.45. A 185ml measure of wine is £3.75.
Do you do food?
Yes, all our food is home-cooked and fresh every day. The average price of a meal is £6.95, for things like burger and chips and chicken goujons. A roast dinner is also £6.95.
Who are your customers?
Office workers, shoppers, barristers, police and the odd celebrity. We attract all ages, but at night when we put music on the age range is generally 25 to 40.
What attracts people?
The staff is a big thing. They always enjoy the craic and the customers appreciate that. The place is always clean and tidy. And we're renowned for our food and drink offer.
What are the issues affecting trade in Belfast?
There's some pubs that have really suffered from the recession, but fortunately it's not really affected us. The prices are a wee bit hefty for some people. And the supermarkets are not helping by selling drink so cheaply.
On the plus side, a lot of cruise ships now stop from the US and we are near the docks.
Karen Sheppard is the manager at the Duke of York, on Commercial Court, one of Belfast's oldest streets and its version of Fleet Street.
This traditional bar, which was blown up in 1973 and rebuilt in 1976, is famed for having more than 180 Irish whiskeys available, arguably the largest collection in Ireland and perhaps the world.
How much will a drink cost me?
Guinness, Harp and Carlsberg are all £3.10. A single measure of wine is £3.60. Coke is £1.50.
Do you do food?
No.
Who are your customers?
During the day it's mainly office workers, journalists and a fair amount of tourists. In the evenings, it tends to be students, musicians and couples.
What attracts people?
We have a low turnover of staff, which is good as people like to see a familiar face. The atmosphere is also convivial to conversation, so there's no loud televisions or music. We try to make people feel welcome.
What are the issues affecting trade in Belfast?
Off-trade pricing is definitely an issue, with students always drinking before they go out. The weather is also an issue, but we've got heaters outside for when it's cold.
Kris Nixon is manager at Whites Tavern. The city centre bar lays claims to having been given Belfast's first liquor licence in 1630.
How much will a drink cost me?
Guinness is £3.40. Shorts are £2.90. Coke is £1.60. And a glass of w