Chris Maclean: Forget the Good Pub Guide, here's my top ten...
I've argued before that the endorsement of a pub in any of these guides is hugely welcome; a confirmation that what we do is appreciated. But there is no doubt the selection process is a little flawed.
The Good Beer Guide (one that I'm in) is managed by the members of CamRA. Good beer is a subjective issue. No one knowingly sells bad beer (do they?). Therefore the decisions can appear odd but, essentially, the membership look at pubs delivering consistently good beer. Okay I suspect a degree of sentimentality creeps in. Disproportionate support for eclectic pubs that please the members may be a factor.
The Good Pub Guide is another kettle of fish. Readers nominate pubs they feel are "good".
I confess I struggle to embrace this selection process. It appears a number of self-appointed reviewers submit candidates for inclusion. I'm convinced it is a motley collection of retired teachers who get arroused by focaccia bread, tea-lights and radicchio. I seriously doubt they have any concept of what a pub actually is. They probably don't drink. Their ideal candidates have pastel decor, menus on slates, extemporary jazz in the background.
I want to be in the Good Pub Guide because I believe we run a good pub. I will probably never be in the Good Pub Guide because I don't think good pubs often get in there. So here are some thoughts.
This week I've had to seriously re-arrange my favorite top 10 pubs in the UK. Ironically, almost every pub I've listed features somewhere in the Good Pub Guide. My sample might be small and I am sure there will be plenty out there who will take issue with my selection but, for what it is worth, I'd like to suggest in no particular order;
The Philharmonic in Liverpool (the Dining Rooms get a mention in the GPG); an awesome pub. Its design is simply breathtaking. There are queues of women waiting to visit the Gents to marvel at the marble. Oh, and the beer is fabulous too.
The Square & Compass, Worth Matravers (its in the Good Pub Guide); great pub with nice rustic architecture, good beer and a tradition rooted in stone. Those who know it will understand.
The Gate Inn, Marshside (Good Pub Guide); a shabby, unassuming little pub on the marshes outside Canterbury. The pub I learnt my craft in ~ I worked there for many years. The landlord, Chris Smith, has been there over thirty years and taught me all I know. Log fires, morris dancing, wholesome food. Love it.
The Swan, Little Totham (Good Pub Guide; Lucky Dip); a beautiful little pub. I met the landlord John Pascoe many years ago at an awards dinner ~ his passion spills into everything it does. Former CamRA National Pub of the Year twice.
The Cheshire Cheese off Fleet Street (Good Pub Guide); I have yet to discover a more iconic English pub than this. Do not go to the bar at the rear. The one on the right is incredible.
The Kelham Island Tavern, Sheffield (Good Pub Guide; Lucky Dip); discovered this week. Possible the most honest, ordinary boozer I've come across. Fantastic beers. Good food offering too ~ even better black pudding than the Gate Inn! Its the current CamRA National Pub of the Year.
Halfway House, Pitney, Somerset (Good Pub Guide): Won CamRA national pub of the year in 2006 and deservedly so. When I visited I sat in awe at what they delivered. Truly stunning.
Lord Nelson, Southwold(Good Pub Guide); Delightful pub with great beer (well its hard not to drink Adnams here) and clearly an understanding of what its customers want.
Princess Louise, Holborn, London(Good Pub Guide): Another Sam Smiths pub which has been recently lovingly restored. The landlord knows his stuff and everyone involved in the place seems to understand what makes a good pub.
My wife suggests I must include the Bell Inn at Horndon on the Hill, Essex (Good Pub Guide); Its quirky hot cross buns on the ceiling are fun but the food, beer and hospitality are tremendous but I will bypass it instead and propose something different I found yesterday... The Angel, Covent Garden is a totally unspoilt bar. It is like walking into a bar 40 years ago. Apart from a couple of ugly laminated signs it has not changed. It felt odd no one was smoking. That seemed wrong. Its a fantastic pub and exactly what the Good Pub Guide misses.
These are good pubs - I'd be interested if you know of any better ones.
