If you want to attract drinkers cracking open sparkling wines, you are probably better off looking outside of the north-eastern region of France that defines the category.
There is no bigger barometer of people's wealth than champagne sales.
Whether it's bankers keeping corks on out of shame at their bungling with the public's money or fewer real workers celebrating pay rises, it's no surprise that Brits are now consuming far less of the stuff (see 'Champagne squeeze', below right ).
It seems, though, that the loss of the French grandes marques has been to the gain of sparkling wines from other parts of the world. Only the produce of one particular corner of France can legally be called champagne, but Italy and Spain are successful producers of sparklers too.
Having found out about the Champagne region's decision to drastically reduce production this year, I was surprised to find analysts Nielsen saying that pubs sold three per cent more sparkling wine in the past 12 months than in the year before.
The explanation, it turned out, lies in the fact that other types of sparkling wine are in impressive growth.
This is counteracting declining champagne sales to the tune of 16 per cent.
Drinkers aren't willing to give up their celebrations despite fewer pound coins jangling in pockets, so are turning to cheaper varieties such as prosecco and cava.
So, think of countries less celebrated for the art if you want to sell sparkling wine in 2009. Punters are clearly still thirsty for bubbles, even if French ones are too expensive.