Profile: New design, old values

"I was very clear, all along, that what I wanted to build was a pub," insists Peter Borg-Neal.

We're sitting enjoying a beer and admiring the Akeman, a pub in the centre of Tring, Hertfordshire, and the flagship of Peter's burgeoning empire, Oakman Inns.

The reason for the comment is that, while Peter was clear on the aim of the £1m Akeman development, he accepts that some customers may have a little more trouble defining the business.

"There are probably some who think of it as a restaurant, and some as a bar," he agrees. Even so, the Akeman demonstrates a commitment to traditional pub values, even if visually the business is not exactly your standard street corner local.

Opened at the end of 2007, the Akeman was named Pub Design of the Year at The Publican Awards​ 2009. The original building acquired by Oakman Inns - a Victorian town house - has been greatly extended at the rear.

The result is a relaxed seating area that greets visitors at the front of the business, which opens into a bar area. The building then extends out through a glazed link into a large, light restaurant area. An open kitchen runs the full length of the restaurant, and beyond this is a courtyard for outdoor eating and drinking.

The development clearly represents a major change of use, and there was more than two years between acquiring the building and the opening. "There were certainly some interesting discussions with the planners, particularly since this is a conservation area," says Peter.

Peter's previous venture was the much-admired Italian restaurant Forno Vivo, which he sold to Yates Group in 2004. However, the subsequent sale of the Yates operation to Laurel saw plans to roll out La Fornia as a brand abandoned.

His career has also included stints with Taylor Walker and Whitbread, and he has been involved in the development of brands including Nicholson's Inns, Casa and Jim Thompson's.

All that experience stood Peter in good stead when developing the Akeman - the name is old English for Oakman, and the name of a Roman road in the town. Alongside a drinks range that includes cask beers from local brewers, the food is a mix of traditional British dishes and Mediterranean flavours.

"If you look at ready meals in Marks & Spencer, that's what people are eating," he points out. Big sellers include pork belly, burgers, pasta dishes and daily fish specials.

The food is prepared freshly on view in the open kitchen. "We don't make a big deal of exactly where the food comes from. Customers want to know that it's fresh, and good quality," says Peter.

The Akeman has clearly met a need in Tring, and the Oakman business has expanded. The Old Post Office, a converted site in Wallingford, Oxfordshire, is now trading under a similar format to the Akeman.

A third pub, the Red Lion in Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, has been acquired from Spirit Group and previously traded as a Chef & Brewer. It will be converted later this year.

Peter's track record gives him strong operational experience, as well as a feel for where things can go wrong. "I've seen good brands ruined when the accountants take over," he says.

However, while acknowledging that having the right people to run outlets is essential, credit is currently the brake on further growth.

"There are other sites we'd be interested but, whatever they tell you, the banks just aren't lending at the moment," Peter says.

Once that pressure eases, expect to hear a lot more from Oakman Inns.