Satisfying the locals

Richard Kennedy tells Ted Brunning why his food-led Horseshoe, in Cambridgeshire, is a dining destination as well as a valued local

It's a big step from the kitchen of a high-end restaurant to a pub. No large brigade of chefs. Menu prices are lower. The focus of the business is different, too: wet sales, even in a pub whose main business is food, are more important, so you have to know your beer as well as your wine.

And you can't bury yourself in the kitchen 16 hours a day, either — regulars expect to see the gaffer on parade, at least occasionally.

That's the step Richard Kennedy took when he signed the freehold lease of the Horseshoe, in Offord Darcy, near Huntingdon.

Kennedy learned to cook in a world of complicated sauces and imaginative ways with veg, training with outside caterer Gardner Merchant. A stint in a country pub converted into an Italian brasserie, followed by two years as sous chef with TV chef Steven Saunders at Sheene Mill in Melbourn near Cambridge, and spells at Cambridgeshire's gastronomic landmarks, Midsummer House and the Pink Geranium.

But his heart had always been in the pub trade. Kennedy has been at the Horseshoe two years and started by designing a consciously pubby menu.

With more confidence and a growing understanding of his customer base, Kennedy has edged closer to his fine-dining background.

"The cooking is still simpler than in a restaurant, but the ethos is the same — we've found the best suppliers in the area, and the quality of

the ingredients really has to shine through," says Kennedy

Wet sales still make up more than 50% of turnover, and Kennedy pays close attention to his real ales.

Greene King IPA and Fuller's London Pride are the regulars, along with a changing guest and an oddity for the district — Ossian, from Scotland's Inveralmond Brewery. It's a favourite of his dad, who as a proud Scot is happy to make the 14-hour round trip to Perth to collect supplies.

It's said that people go to the pub for company and to the restaurant with company. In that sense, the Horseshoe is still more of a pub than a restaurant — people come from far and wide to dine, but there are plenty of villagers for whom it's the centre of community life — even more so since the only other pub in the village, the Swan, closed a few months ago. Kennedy is keenly aware of the responsibility, and the pub is active in supporting community groups and causes.

"It's pretty affluent round here but there are people from the other end of the scale as well," says Kennedy.

"We've got multi-millionaires and retired farmworkers. They all sit down together and get on. That's what creates the atmosphere."

In any good local, the guv'nor is part of the atmosphere too — and as Sunday is carvery day, Kennedy spends time front-of-house.

"I need to make relationships with regulars," he says. "It also gives me the chance to coach my waiting staff, which is vital."

The Horseshoe is not immune from the economic ill wind. Kennedy is losing trade to the supermarkets and TV like everyone else.

The emphasis on food has neutralised the worst effects of the smoking ban — and has, in fact, created a new opportunity.

"Ladies who lunch," says Kennedy. "Now that the pub doesn't smell of smoke, a new clientele is boosting our daytime trade. We can do 20 to 30 covers at lunchtime — mostly groups of local women."

Sometimes, he says, he's been caught off-guard by the level of lunchtime trade during the week — and if other village licensees haven't cottoned on to this new opportunity yet, maybe it's time they did.

"Some lunchtimes we sell more coffee than alcohol," Kennedy says.

"It's not traditional pub trade, but it's what the business needs, and it's what we all like to see — satisfied customers."

On the menu

Chargrilled asparagus with a poached egg and Parmesan (£5.95)

Salad of home-smoked duck breast with fennel and orange (£5.95)

Corn-fed chicken breast served with Lyonnais potato and a wild mushroom sauce

(£12.95)

Slow-roasted belly pork, cider jus and wholegrain mustard mash

(£10.95)

Bread and butter pudding (£5.75)

Chocolate tart

(£5.75)