Chef Giorgio Locatelli talks
to Lucy Britner about pubs, Peroni and pet hates
Where's your favourite pub?
I don't get to go out much and on my day off I like to spend time with my family, but I do like St John in Archway. It's fairly relaxed and the food is good.
What's your favourite pub dish?
I had brawn and toast in a pub in the north. It was absolutely fantastic — a great idea for a starter or a bar snack.
What do you hate about pubs?
We all need things explaining — especially if English isn't our native tongue — but some menus really go too far. Nobody needs a 10-line dish description.
What is aperitivo?
Actually, in Italy, we don't have a name for this — we just do it. But you British like to have a name for everything. Aperitivo is basically a snack eaten with a drink before dinner. Usually people stop off on their way home from work at a bar, when these small bite-size tastes of
Italy are served with drinks. I'm working with SAB Miller and its Peroni brand to introduce
an aperitivo every time Peroni is served, in
the pub.
How do you think they will work in the British pub?
I think it's a great way for licensees to create atmosphere. Even if they don't charge for them, people are likely to enjoy their experience more, have another drink and return to the bar with friends on another occasion.
Do you think people will be confused about whether they have to pay for them?
No, as long as the licensee is clear — if they're on the tables or handed over the bar with drinks, people will assume they are free. If you can't afford to do this, put them on your menu with bar snacks or bread and olives.
Should chefs stick to Italian recipes?
No, not at all. I have come up with Italian dishes as an idea of what aperitivo is. Chefs should look for the best regional produce and just have fun.
Giorgio's aperitivo ideas
Cozze e fregola — mussels and fregola (pasta) in a chilli tomato sauce
Baccala mantecato — polenta & salted cod
Acciughe e peperoni — anchovies, capers & red peppers
Crostini al fegatini — crostini with chicken liver
Crostone di'nduja — spreadable salami on onion focaccia
Focaccia alla rucola, burrata e olio — focaccia with burrata cheese and rocket
Risotto al salto, ragù di luganega — risotto with sausages in tomato