Let's take it outside

Even in the best-run pub kitchen, plating and serving a main course every six seconds would put something of a strain on the skills and resources...

Even in the best-run pub kitchen, plating and serving a main course every six seconds would put something of a strain on the skills and resources available.

However, for David Dudley, owner and licensee of the George in Great Oxendon, Leicestershire, it's all in a day's work - although thankfully not on the days when he's working at the pub. In partnership with his son Philip - who followed dad into chef's whites and trained under Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons - David combines the pub business with an upmarket outside catering operation which trades under the catchy name By George.

In fact, the function business predates David's acquisition of the freehold pub. "I was originally asked by a friend of mine if I could help him out at an outside catering event," he says. That turned into a long career providing high-quality food and silver service at corporate events for blue-chip customers such as luxury car brands and the motorsport fraternity.

While the George is now his main business, David still has around half-a-dozen large outside catering commissions a year - not bad when you consider the cost of hiring a marquee capable of seating hundreds of guests in comfort, in addition to chefs, waiters and other staff - as well as smaller family occasions and celebrations.

Not that it always goes to plan. David's wealth of anecdotes includes the story of a marquee wedding which tried to cut costs by laying down matting instead of a wooden floor. Days of heavy rain left the surface resembling a swamp. "Once, the plates weren't delivered," he recalls. However, an appeal to a few local pubs - "we look out for each other" - produced enough crockery to ensure the day went successfully.

Both the 16th-century pub and the catering business specialise in traditional British food - something still relatively unusual in the black-tie business, where French-style dishes tend to dominate. To help redress this, the By George team has worked with Brakes to develop the ultimate 'black tie' menu, using fresh ingredients sourced by Brakes.

The menu has been developed by David working with Brakes senior development chef Mark Irish. It will be served to 500-plus guests at the Demelza Ball, which takes place in May, in the shadow of Leeds Castle in Kent. The flagship event of Demelza Hospice Care For Children will help 450 life-limited children and their families in the South East of England and is also being sponsored by the Brakes Group.

Which is where that calculation comes in - David reckons it will take 10 minutes to serve the main course at the Demellza event. Five chefs serving one hundred customers each in 10 minutes produces that six-seconds-per-plate figure.

Undaunted, the chefs and serving team will face the challenges of preparing and delivering the menu from a portable kitchen in the grounds of Leeds Castle. "I've enjoyed working with Brakes to develop the menu," says David. "It should be a great event."Fingers crossed.