The head brewer at the historic Czech brewery that produces Pilsner Urquell tells John Harrington how the focus on beer quality extends beyond brewing and to the point of serve
For a country that boasts Europe's highest consumption of beer per person, a visit to the Czech Republic's largest brewery shows that quality is given as much emphasis as quantity - and not just in the beer-making process.
"We have a Czech proverb that the brewer brews the beer and the bartender makes it," explains Pavel Prucha, trade brewer at the historic Pilsner Urquell Brewery in Plzen. "The final quality of the served beer depends on the skill of the bartender. If beer is bad on the table then he hasn't done his work properly."
For Prucha, standards of service are vital if drinkers are to appreciate the effort that has gone into producing the Pilsner Urquell at the Pilsner Brewery, since its conception in the mid-19th century.
The beer's name - translated literally as "pilsner from the original source" - comes from its town of origin about 55 miles from Prague, a brewing centre since the 13th century. But Pilsner Urquell's story begins in 1842, when renowned Bavarian brewmaster Josef Groll created what is claimed to be the world's first golden beer using revolutionary methods that form the basis of the brewing process today.
Pilsner Urquell claims to be the only brewer to use the mashing process known as decoction three times, which is said it give the beer its distinctive taste. The method of heating during the decoction stage is also different - a direct flame is used rather than steam, which heats the liquid to a higher temperature, resulting in a golden colour and caramel flavour.
Groll introduced the bottom-fermentation method at the brewery, which helps give the beer its bright colour and is the basis for the methods used for producing pale beers today. Beer is stored at exactly 9°C for 11½ days, causing the yeast to drop to the bottom of the vat, which leaves the beer attractively pale.
Prucha also points to the quality of ingredients that make Pilsner Urquell special: low acidity German Saaz hops, pale malt made at the brewery and soft Plzen water, along with Pilsner H yeast that has origins dating back to Groll's original batch.
In order for the quality of the brewing process to be translated into quality service, bar staff are given specific advice on the best way to serve Pilsner Urquell.
The highest standards are expected at every stage and it starts with the glass. Branded glassware is a must and it's not acceptable to simply use a glass straight from the dishwasher. Bar staff must rinse it again for eight to 10 seconds to remove any detergent and cool the glass to the optimum temperature of 7°C. "Only at this temperature can the beer lover appreciate all the components," says Prucha.
Then there's the three-step pour (left) to produce the perfect serve, complete with the 35mm head. As Prucha explains: "We believe that the consistency of the foam invites the drinker to appreciate the beer. It's a symbol of good quality. We try to teach all bar staff to serve Pilsner Urquell in this condition."
The three-step pour for the perfect Pilsner
1. Hold the glass at a 45° angle, open the tap and start pouring.
2. When the beer reaches the glass lip, close the tap and straighten the glass.
3. Push back the tap to activate the creamer, creating a head of 35mm.
Pilsner Urquell in the UK
Pilsner Urquell was relaunched in the UK last year when SABMiller took 100% ownership of the brand - before this, it was owned by Asian investment bank Nomura after privatisation in the early 1990s. UK brand manager Lucy Kilborn discusses plans to establish the brand as a premium product.
Q: How well established is Pilsner Urquell in the UK at the moment?
A: Miller Brands (UK) has only recently started marketing Pilsner Urquell in the UK, therefore it is relatively small. However, the brand is showing good growth and we have more than doubled the number of draught accounts this year.
Q: What are the plans in terms of roll-out?
A: The roll-out plan will be a selective process focusing on accounts that are frequented by our target consumers; typically males between 28 and 50-years-old, who are passionate and knowledgeable about beer. We will place great emphasis on ensuring that only outlets that are committed to quality of serve will stock Pilsner Urquell. An example of this is that Pilsner Urquell is the only draught beer available in Corney & Barrow in the City of London. Many outlets spend a great deal of time and money expanding their wine list but we believe that offering customers a wider beer range, in terms of taste and originality, is just as important.
Q: What are the plans for marketing?
A: The focus is on supporting selective distribution with a full range of activities that will substantiate Pilsner Urquell's premium positioning. Trial and awareness are key, as illustrated by a recent mailing to 50,000 target consumers, where we outlined the unique properties of the brand; the world's first golden beer; its heritage and its unique taste. A significant proportion of our marketing efforts will be spent on introducing the brand to new consumers and explaining the truly unique attributes of Pilsner Urquell in both the on and off-trade.
Q: How is the idea of the perfect pour being promoted to outlets?
A: The perfect pour is fundamental for Pilsner Urquell and we are supporting this through a comprehensive range of activities, including outlet training, consistent use of our unique Tritan crystal glassware, placing perfect-pour stickers on the back of draught founts to
ensure a perfect glass of Pilsner Urquell is served every time, and an extensive bar-staff advocacy programme.