IT SEEMS Undercover Mum has a lot to answer for. The ITV programme, broadcast in August, saw former policewoman Nina Hobson send samples of steaks bought at JD Wetherspoon and Greene King Hungry Horse pubs for analysis.
Some of the samples showed the meat contained some DNA from the zebu, a species of cattle bred in Africa and Brazil. While neither pub group claimed the steaks in question were from cattle bred in Britain, the programme clearly took the view that consumers were somehow being misled.
The Meat and Livestock Commission (MLC) regularly surveys consumers on the issue. It believes that an increase in the number who believe that meat served in pubs and restaurants should have its country of origin displayed either at the point of purchase or on the menu, now up to 60 per cent, is due to the programme.
MLC Foodservice trade manager Tony Goodger says: "It is clear consumer interest in food provenance has been raised as a result of Undercover Mum which looked at the origin of beef being served in some establishments.
"The issue of menu transparency is not a new one, the MLC has long been urging pubs and restaurants to voluntarily include origin information on all meat dishes served on menus. However, with the growing consumer - and media - interest shown this summer it really is time for operators to sit up and take note."
Menu transparency
Additional surveys by researchers FMCG and MORI suggest that customers commonly associate menu transparency with the perceived quality of establishments and their level of customer care. Fifty-five per cent believe restaurants that show the origin of meat on menus care more about their customers than those that don't, while 63 per cent perceive that 'better quality' eating places are more likely to tell customers where they source their ingredients from, according to MORI.
The issue may not be as clear cut as the MLC suggests. Spirit Group offers British steaks on menus at its more upmarket Chef & Brewer chain, while serving some imported steaks in other segments of the market such as its Two For One pubs.
Spirit Group head of food Paul Farr says: "We regularly survey our customers, and our experience is that quality and value are the most important factors."
While Chef & Brewer customers have shown they are happy to pay for British meat, at the price point which can be charged in the value sector that's not an option - "but that doesn't mean it's not a great quality steak," says Paul.
British or imported?
He believes that the attention Spirit pays to the specifications of its meat, whether British or imported, is the factor that has driven continued food sales increases in the ever-tougher managed pub market. The use of provenance descriptions to add value on pub menus is certainly increasing.
John Martin, marketing manager for Prime Meats, the specialist meat, poultry and game division of Brakes, says: "Providing provenance on menus can really add value to a dish, as customers understand they are getting high-quality meat and will expect to pay more."
He believes that at the very least, publicans should state whether the meat is English, Scottish or Welsh, and where applicable, more regional descriptions should be included such as pork from Norfolk or beef from Shropshire. The accreditation industry growing up around meat raises the possibility that consumers can become confused.
Prime Meats products have accreditation with assurance schemes including Red Tractor, Quality Pork Scotland, Welsh Lamb, BPEX, and RSPCA's Freedom Food. These schemes and the traceability they offer guarantee high standards of animal welfare and responsible use of medicines, pesticides and fertilisers - information that can also be passed on to concerned customers.
The accreditation and accountability of suppliers provides complete traceability right through the supply chain. Scottish and Welsh meat have been granted Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status by the EU which recognises Scottish and Welsh lamb and beef for its special regional identity, in much the same way as stilton and parmigiano reggiano cheeses and parma ham have been.
Communicating this to customers in the limited space available to pubs is another matter. Paul Farr at Spirit says: "You've only get so much room on the menu, so you have to look at what works best.
"We've found that consumers aren't quite sure what descriptions such as 'outdoor reared' or 'organic' mean, but that 'farm assured' works well."