Meat: A cut above

A SURVEY of pubs that offered a prize draw of a whole pig as an incentive to provide information was always likely to attract respondents who know their meat. And so it proved with recent research by the British Pig Executive (BPEX), which quizzed pub chefs on their meat-buying habits, and used the chance to win our porkie friend as a persuader.

Those who replied highlighted demand in the sector for upmarket, adventurous meat products, and of the importance when choosing suppliers on issues like seasonality and regional food. As many as 92 per cent per cent of chefs take account of seasonal availability when writing their menus, and 92 per cent would like to buy more locally sourced produce.

Choosing a supplier​

Almost three quarters (69 per cent) of chefs like their supplier to sell meat under a recognised assurance scheme, such as BPEX's own benchmarking initiatives or those of Red Tractor. Just eight per cent said they were using suppliers that didn't highlight locally or regionally sourced meats.The majority (69 per cent) of pubs use more than one meat supplier. The reasons chefs gave for this suggest they are seeking out sophisticated dishes, as well as looking for convenience. Reasons included:

• "I need to use different butchers to buy organic meat and free range pork"

• "I use specialist French meats such as 'Lable Rouge' chicken and Pyrenean Mountain Lamb"

• "I like to use some named breeds on my menu so I have to shop around".

Pubs are clearly keen to introduce unusual meat cuts. Many, though, would welcome help in doing so. When asked what extra services they would like their meat supplier to offer, over half said new cut ideas. Other responses to this question again indicate chefs being more adventurous. Special price offers on cuts that they don't currently buy was cited by 50 per cent of respondents, and just under 20 per cent said they would like more recipe suggestions from their supplier.

Farms on the map​

Details of the breed, of the farm, of the feeding regime and general information on origin were also demands that chefs made of their supplier.There was perhaps one question on the survey that summarises the changing priorities of pubs in sourcing meat. When asked where they currently buy their meat, the majority (over 70 per cent) replied a dedicated catering butcher. However, over 20 per cent said a farm shop or from direct farm sales. This is "probably the fastest growing distribution channel in the foodservice market," according to BPEX.The meat on pubs' menus is clearly becoming higher quality. Chefs are willing to go the extra mile to find a supplier that suits these new, more exacting needs, and therefore cuts and suppliers of meat that were once obscure in the pub market are coming into play.