Time to satisfy more Sunday customers
When I was running a small chain of pubs in the East Midlands I used to slightly dread making a site visit late on a Sunday afternoon. There was never any knowing whether retail standards had withstood a hurricane of diners or a perfect storm of thirsty session-drinkers. Too often, tables were left dirty and uncleared and too many ashtrays were abandoned, full of cigarette butts.
Scenes of relative devastation can still be seen on too many Sunday afternoons in too many pubs. There is no excuse for these messy scenes - by and large, you hardly ever see them at restaurants. It seems to me that customers have a right to expect speedy service and a minimum level of tidiness. It's never a good enough excuse to say that a pub has been busy.
This weekend, in the name of selfless devotion to the cause of UK licensed retail standards, I visited three pubs in Brighton during their Sunday afternoon twilight hours. As might be expected, retail standards proved extremely variable. Regent Inn's Old Orleans outlet scored highest on the basis that good service goes a long way. Three weeks after a major menu re-launch, there's clearly been a real push on staff training. It's been a while since I've come across such friendly, helpful staff.
Mind you, the Brighton branch looks pretty battered in the unforgiving late afternoon light, and other features failed to impress. Window frames in the upstairs dining area are unbelievably filthy - a gentle wipe with a serviette produced deep grime. The first knife I was offered was thick with crusty food debris. Food was served quickly and my rack of ribs was reasonable value at £13.95, but the vegetable fajita was appalling: the vegetables consisted entirely of fried onions swimming in oil, expensively priced at £9.95. But staff were coping well and only the unsatisfactory knife could be blamed on them.
At JD Wetherspoon's Bright Helm outlet on the busy West Street circuit, staff were initially too busy chatting to serve us. When it did arrive, service was super-friendly and helpful. But a disappointingly large amount of detritus littering floors and ashtrays spoiled the experience. The main rush had already happened but staff had not bothered to clear the pub.
Brighton's London Road is home to some of the city's funkier pubs, which attract an alternative crowd. The Hobgoblin fared worst of all in my snap-shot study although, as at Old Orleans, its single staff member was its saving grace. The pub is in a diabolical state, with mould on walls and peeling wallpaper.
The Hobgoblin's charming barman implored me not to buy five bottles of Corona at £3 each, on the basis that they amounted to terrible value compared to the draught lager. As my group played pool, he scurried around collecting empty bottles and glasses while keeping one eye on the bar.
It seems to me that standards could improve vastly at all these venues, with special attention to cleanliness. But bar staff and waiting staff were pretty impressive. Willing and able, they need leadership stressing that customers won't pay top-dollar to sit in pub environments that are squalid compared to their homes - even on a Sunday afternoon.