Profile: The right balance

THERE'S A rule of thumb sometimes used to distinguish a food-led pub from a restaurant - would you feel comfortable standing at the bar and just having a pint?

Factor in the growing number of pubs which also do a sideline in accommodation, and it's clear that the lines are becoming even more blurred. Walking the line, but aiming to stay firmly in the 'pub' camp, is the Horse & Groom in Charlton, near Malmesbury, Wiltshire.

The latest in the small-but-select group of pubs being developed by Merchant Inns, the 16th century Cotswold stone coaching inn reopened in March after a refurb designed to restore its traditional appeal and re-establish it as an integral part of its community.

"The support of the community is essential," says manager Simon Haggan. "Although destination food trade is important to us, a village pub needs to be used by the village."

So, while the pub's positioning as a fine dining traditional country inn puts a strong emphasis on food sourced from local suppliers, customers are greeted by a traditional bar which features local cask beers, bar stools and unset tables.

Keeping it local​

The aim is to maintain a genuine pub experience where customers can go for a pint and a chat, while also serving good food in informal surroundings. The emphasis on local businesses extended to sparkling wine from the nearby Bow-in-the-Cloud vineyard, served at the opening.

The food side is delivered by a kitchen team under the supervision of Merchant's Michelin-starred executive chef Rob Clayton. From bar lunches starting at £4.50 to a-la-carte dining, the food advertises its local provenance.

Working with Rob, head chef Justin Brown sources from suppliers such as Jessie Smith, the local butcher who now sets aside whole ribeye on the bone, hung for 28 days for the pub. Pork and stilton sausages also come from here. Pork belly and bacon comes from nearby Bromham, free range chicken from a farm in Stroud, and lamb from the Cotswolds.

The pub is also supporting the 'Just Ask' campaign promoted by the Country Land and Business Association, which encourages customers to ask where food is sourced. Seasonal changes are reflected in the menu. Average spend in the dining room is £25, with set Sunday lunch £20.

The décor​

The interior reflects the traditional approach, with open fires, a wooden floor in the dining room, solid oak tables and chairs, and flagstones on the bar floor.

Outside, there is a walled garden, a children's play area and Wiltshire's only outside bar. "In summer, we can serve drinks and take food to table without people having to traipse through the pub, and we're also planning to offer a children's drink range outside," says Simon.

To this has also been added five bedrooms, refurbished while retaining their traditional style. Merchant sees the country weekend break trade becoming increasingly important.

Founded by well known pub, hotel and restaurant veteran Robert Breare, the privately owned company restores freehold country inns in rural areas.

Undaunted by listed buildings, the aim is to add value through food, bedrooms and value-for-money prices. The Horse & Groom is the company's second pub, following on from the Carnarvon Arms in Burghclere, Berkshire, which reopened last year.

A third pub, the Black Boy Inn, in Oxfordshire, reopens this month, with further acquisitions in the pipeline. The company strategy allows for up to 10 pubs a year, but growth is limited by the availability of suitable pubs.

But, in a few pubs at least, customers can be confident of being able to enjoy a pint in traditional surroundings without facing the dreaded question - 'have you booked?'