On the face of it, sourcing fresh, local produce in London makes about as much sense as taking the caffeine out of coffee or the alcohol out of lager. But life is a series of surprises, and the contribution that Borough Market makes to keeping an increasing number of London's best pubs well stocked is one of them.
The market, which has existed in one form or another for at least 2,000 years has been reinvented over recent years as a Mecca for the 'real food' movement, which includes an increasing number of pubs that are responding to consumer interest in the provenance of food on the menu.
It's a passion shared by many of the suppliers who sell their wares at Borough Market, located on the south side of the Thames in the shadow of London Bridge station. Peter Gott, of Sillfield Farm in Cumberland, sells rare breed meats at the market to a number of pubs. "If you eat lamb in a pub, of course you should be asking where the **** it came from," he says. "If it's from New Zealand, the menu should say so."
Another supplier seeing increasing interest from the pub market is Turnips, which sells fruit and veg from English and French farms. Owner Fred Foster says: "Traditionally, pubs would take all their produce from one supplier, and while most of it might be great, if a couple of items were disappointing then it was all rubbish as far as the chef was concerned."
Turnips is a primary wholesaler, taking the best produce from garlic to squashes from a range of producers to ensure consistency. "I don't like the word speciality," says Fred. "Our watercress is just watercress - but it's the very best."
Tim Youard of Ireland-based Derreensillagh Smokehouse sells salmon, mackerel and eel at the market, transported from Co Kerry twice a week. "Pub chefs come here to get their ideas," he says, having seen his produce become a staple of many specials boards.
Suppliers increasingly see it as a place to position their wares. Lincolnshire-based Boston Sausage, which already sells to pubs operated by Batemans and Bulldog Pub on its home turf, has had a stall at Borough Market since January.
"We're starting to get noticed by new customers here," says butcher Sam Palmer.
Pubs can tap into great produce by being flexible about cuts, according to Peter Kent of venison specialist Mid Devon Fallow.
"I sell venison loins and fillets to two Michelin-starred restaurants," he says. "But you only get two of each from each deer and I need to sell the whole animal - venison burgers, sausages and casserole are great pub dishes."
The market isn't just about food. Mike Hill of Utobeer sells speciality beers to a range of pubs and restaurants including Inn on the Park and Le Gavroche.
"It's not massive quantities, but a steady trade as they look for beers to match the food," he says.
Meanwhile, Chegworth Valley is toasting an order for its pressed apple juice from Jamie's Wine Bars. "The company wanted a high-quality, non-fizzy soft drink," says Danielle Hope. "We fit the bill."
Trading since the year dot
There has been a market at the south end of London Bridge for at least 2,000 years, certainly since the first bridge was built in Roman times, and probably before, when boats were the only way across.
As one of the main entry points to the City from the 'garden of England', as well as the South Coast ports, it was a natural place for traders to congregate. This tradition was helped by the fact that, by trading south of the river, it was possible to avoid at least some of the many taxes, duties, fees and levies imposed on goods sold in the City itself.
The market moved to its current site, on the former churchyard of St Margaret's, in the 1750s. This was mainly to shift stalls - and cattle - off nearby Borough High Street.
Although there are currently plans for a new railway development that will involve relocating and rebuilding parts of the market, it seems set to remain an integral part of London.