Pub review - The Three Horseshoes

Taken over by Spice Inns (which also owns the Hillside in Hertford and the Cricketers Arms near Saffron Walden) just over a year ago, this is a gastropub that packs oodles of atmosphere with fine cooking to boot.

Its semi-rural location and torchlit exterior leads one to half expect Dick Turpin to pop out from behind its doors and shout: "Stand and deliver", but that's part of its charm. The interior offers a more contemporary spin with whitewashed walls, light-oak tables and brown leather sofas contrasting with ancient beams and two inglenook fireplaces.

The menu, courtesy of head chef Eamon Moore, steers a course for modern European dishes that present just the right hint of sophistication without being too adventurous.

Excellent home-made breads offer a mixture of flavours: from lavender, thyme and honey to rosemary and cranberry. A starter of crayfish and red-onion risotto with soft herbs and Parmesan (£6.95) provides plenty of punch, with herbs such as dill and basil. Another diverting first-course highlight, the grilled Portobello mushroom filled with goats' cheese and garlic butter (£5.95) is also flavoursome and pleasing.

Mains offer an even spread of red and white meat along with fish and game, but there isn't much choice for vegetarians.

Pan-fried wild sea bass with sautéed bok choi, chilli, ginger and spring-onion dressing (£15.95) has a good combination of zingy Oriental flavours with the filleted sea bass being fresh and moist. There is also a handful of specials to choose from. However, the roast wild boar with braised red cabbage in red wine sauce (£16.25) didn't quite live up to expectations. The chunks of wild boar meat weren't as tender as they could have been and, with the subdued taste of the accompanying red cabbage, the overall impact of the dish was far from enticing.

Desserts, all priced at £5.75, are presented in the way school dinners were. Apple and blackberry crumble with crème Anglaise is a filling pud, but winning hands down is the panforte bread and butter pudding, which brings a joyous end to a fairly satisfying meal.

Service is gregarious, the environment is family-friendly and punters are mainly locals.

Humayun Hussain

PubChef rating (out of 10)

Ambience 9, Value for money 8, Flavour factor 8, Overall impression 9

BEERS: Stella, Carlsberg and London Pride. Bottled beers include Beck's, Corona and Bud

MAIN COURSES: From £10.75 to £16.95

WINES ON LIST: 13 whites (4 by the glass), 14 reds (4 by the glass), 2 rosés and 4 Champagnes (1 by the glass)

ANOTHER THING: All the herbs used at the pub come from its own herb garden.