Pub Review - Star & Garter, East Dean, East Sussex

Many of the traditional South Downs pubs close to affluent Midhurst and Chichester have been transformed in recent years, from rustic watering holes favoured by walkers into civilised dining venues, and the 18th century, brick and flint Star & Garter is no exception.

Long-time landlord Oliver Ligertwood, of the Fox Goes Free pub in neighbouring Charlton, snapped up the run-down Hurdlemakers in the winter of 2002. Following extensive refurbishment at the pub, he set about rivalling his former venture in the food and accommodation stakes. Although hidden away in the folds of the rolling hills, Oliver knew his market, one that takes in the lunchtime walking fraternity, visitors to the Weald and Downland Open Air Museum along the road, race-goers from Goodwood (just up the hill), well-heeled diners from Chichester and Midhurst, and decent business from the Rolls-Royce factory nearby.

Booking ahead is advised as the single, yet roomy, bar-cum-dining room is small for a pub. Ale drinkers shouldn't panic when they see the pump-free bar - tip-top local beers are drawn in time-honoured fashion straight from the cellar.

If you love fresh fish and seafood then your trip down winding Sussex lanes will be well rewarded. Crab and lobster are landed at Selsey on the Sussex coast and fish is delivered direct from Portsmouth. Pride of place on the board goes to the Star & Garter platters (£40 and £75), the latter offering a whole lobster, two dressed crab, scallops, wild salmon, large crevettes, and a pint of prawns.

Alternatively, you can tuck into big bowls of mussels (£6.50/£10.50), whole dressed lobster (£18) or crab (£8.50), or halibut with mussels and coconut curry sauce (£14.50). Carnivores are catered for with the steak and kidney pudding (£10.75), or winter game grill - West Dean partridge, East Dean pigeon and wild boar sausages. Lunchtime extras take in baguettes (£5-£7), ploughman's (£7) and favourites such as liver and bacon (£7.50).

We lunched on pan-fried plump, juicy scallops (£8.50), a crisp pastry tart filled with caramelised red onions and strong goat's cheese, with a balsamic dressing (£6), and an excellent whole baked sea bass stuffed with lemon and garden herbs (£16.50). No room for puds, but if we had, the choice includes plum and apple crumble and Belgian chocolate tart with mango sorbet (£5).

PubChef rating (out of 10)

Ambience 7, Value for money 6 Flavour factor 8, Overall impression 7.5

BEERS: Ballards Best & Nyewood Gold and Arundel Gauntlet (from the cellar). Leffe on draught, Mr White's Heart of Hampshire dry cider.

MAIN COURSES: From £7.50 to £16.50

WINES ON LIST: Local wine merchants Nick Mason and Charles Hennings' selection includes 11 by the glass.

ANOTHER THING: In summer you can buy crab, lobster, mussels and smoked salmon to take away from the Shellfish Bar on the terrace.