Steak and ale pie outdoes boeuf en croute every time, according to Egon Ronay.
The veteran critic believes the best British food pubs now offer a warmer welcome and better menus than French bistros. In the 2006 edition of his Guide to the best Restaurants and Gastropubs, Mr Ronay says many pubs now serve better food than their counterparts in France - seen as the model for the 'casual dining' revolution.
The growth of pub food shows up President Chirac's comments about the poor quality of English food in the run-up to the 2012 Olympic bid announcement as "hasty and ill-informed," said Mr Ronay.
"The great importance and the greatest difference from French bistros, which strike you as soon as you cross the threshold, lie in the immediate friendliness and heartiness of the welcome."
In contrast, waiters on the other side of the Channel are often 'surly', said Mr Ronay. He added that the emergence of gastropubs is the "biggest change" he has seen in 50 years as a restaurateur and critic.
"The great majority of gastropubs take pride in local produce which they actively and laudably promote."
After inspecting more than 430 pubs, the guide names the Star Inn in Harome, North Yorkshire, as its gastropub of the year 2006. Its top ten includes the Three Fishes at Mitton, Lancashire, awarded the Pub of the Year accolade at the Pub Food Awards two weeks ago. Last month, French-born chef Albert Roux praised the growth in British pubs offering "good food, using local produce, at reasonable prices."