People are often keen to write the obituary of cask beer. But would they be so quick to dismiss it if they saw some of the licensees and managers out there who are doing such a fantastic job selling it?
These are people who have a passion and belief in the product as well as great skill in selling it. In the latest stage of our Proud of pubs campaign, each month The Publican will profile one of these 'cask ale champions' to see what others can learn from them.
Frank Cobb came to work for St Austell in 2003 following 16 years in the trade with, among others, Whitbread, Morland's and Greene King. Last year he was awarded the St Austell Cask Beer champion award for his work in the Shipwrights in Padstow. So impressed were his bosses at the Cornish brewer that they gave Frank and his wife Gail the opportunity to take on the bigger and more challenging Holmbush Inn pub in St Austell in June this year.
- Why do you love cask beer?
I always was a cask ale fan. My old local in Windsor used to have some terrific beers such as Ind Coope and Courage Best. Everyone knocks cask beer but I've never been out of favour with it if you know what I mean. I love going to these beer festivals - I think it's fantastic that you've got a chance to taste all of these beers from around the country. I can't get to Suffolk but I can get to taste Suffolk beers and see the subtle flavour differences and understand how a lot of people have put a lot of effort into making that pint.
How do you communicate this love to customers?
I do a "try before you buy" scheme here. We give out samples to people - especially when they haven't tried the beers before. You always can tell if someone hasn't when they are at the bar because they look very undecided and unsure. All I say is: "Have you ever tried St Austell beers before?" Then I always give them a little taster of all of the beers in tumbler glasses.
I do that no matter what time of day it is, even if we are 10 deep at the bar, because the fact is I want that person to understand what the beers are all about. The customers are always really happy that we have given them the opportunity to taste our beers. How many times have you gone into a pub wanting to try a beer you might have heard of but are unsure about?
All you need to do is explain your beers to people - it takes all of 30 seconds and then that person is an expert on those beers and he or she will go back home and recommend them to their mates. So they sell our beers to their friends - all because I have taken 30 seconds to let them have a taste.
Who do you look to attract to cask beer? Do you go for the traditional target market or try and attract younger men and women?
I do the "try before you buy" for young guys too. I say if you don't fancy anything too strong then just have a Tinners - have a normal beer. The general response is "oh it's not cold enough" - that's all they care about!
It's harder to get the cask beer message across in this pub compared to my last pub - sometimes I feel like I am banging my head against a brick wall. But we give cask beer prominence on the bar which is the great thing. My challenge here is to get people to change over to cask beers because it's my passion. And I would do that wherever I worked. Beer won't sell itself - you have got to sell it.
Women don't realise how good beer tastes until you give them a taste of it. It's only when they taste it that they say it's not too bad! I say to the women who come in here: "Why are you drinking that alcopop which costs you £2.80 and is only 330ml when you can have a nice bigger measure of beer? You'll have a great night on it and there is some great flavour in it. Why not give it a try?" I have converted a few of them. Not all of them, but some!
What are the big challenges facing cask beer at the moment?
Right at the moment the biggest challenge facing cask ale is the smoking issue. The big cask ale drinkers are the older smokers. And we need to use cask to try and get those people into our pubs even if they can't smoke because the atmosphere is good and the beer is good. I don't like drinking at home, I like drinking in pubs - it's the atmosphere.
I think quality is a huge issue. I don't think there is enough knowledge among staff. I don't think many staff are confident enough to look at a pint and know whether it should go out or not. They need to be able to say: "That pint's not good enough, you're not having it". If they don't do that a customer is going to go away and think that was the worst pint they ever had. It's a case of trying to get the staff to notice when they are pulling the pint - they should be able to feel it in the pump when they are getting to the end of a barrel, they should be able to see it in the glass. We need to get all staff on board selling cask beers.
Which is your favourite beer that you stock?
To be honest I like strong beers with a lot of body so I would have to go for HSD - known locally as High Speed Death! I love its flavour - you can really bite into it. If I am being sensible I'll drink Tinners - it's a great session beer. I class that as a real traditional ale. It's got a lot of flavour and hop but is very quaffable.
Obviously you need all factors (clean lines, dispense, cellar) in top order to sell top quality beer. But what, in your opinion, is the single most important factor?
I would say presentation is the most important thing. It's got to look right. Full stop. The way you present the beer and the theatre that accompanies it is so important because when someone looks at it they have got to want to drink it.
I remember a guy in a Whitbread training film who I have aspired to be like ever since. He was pouring the pint of Whitbread Best and his face was beaming and he put the pint on the bar and he looked so proud to be serving that pint. And that's what it's all about.
Frank Cobb was speaking to Adam Withrington.
Pub: The Holmbush InnLocation: St Austell, CornwallManager: Frank Cobb
"Rather than see it as an annoying add-on, Frank hasmanaged to make cask ale the centrepiece of his pub'soffering and has reaped the benefits."