Blonde bombshell

As the market for speciality imported beers continues to grow, JOHN HARRINGTON visits the Belgian home of Duvel to learn about quality over quantity

British fans of speciality imported beer are used to tasting brews that pack quite a punch. But at 8.5% abv, Duvel, a product of the Duvel Moortgat Brewery on the outskirts of Brussels, is stronger than most all the more surprising because the extra blond colour gives it the appearance of a beer with half the strength.

Duvel pronounced 'doovul, meaning 'devil in Flemish stakes a claim to be the King of Belgium Beers, and for the past 15 years it has been available 'in a very small way in the British market. But at a time when speciality imported beers are on the up, the brewer believes the time is right to push the brand into UK pubs and bars.

Duvel has slowly been gaining listings this side of the English Channel; it can be seen at 77 Mitchells & Butlers pubs in London, as well as Revolution Vodka Bar outlets, and it is being trialled at Slug and Lettuce pubs.

Nigel Stevenson, sales manager of Clay Beers, which imports Duvel in the UK, explains: 'It's probably only two or three years that there's been any sort of presence [in Britain]. At one time, they were just happy to be selling the beer in the UK, but since then it has been growing and they have to restructure their approach. Now they are trying to make it more available.

On a visit to the 134-year-old brewery, a 20-minute drive from the centre of Brussels, Duvel Moortgat chief executive Michel Moortgat explains that the appeal of Duvel is as a beer for people who want to drink 'less but better.

'As with all Western countries, beer consumption is declining in Belgium. But the good thing is that people drink less by volume, more by quality. They are more likely to drink speciality beers with higher alcohol flavours. Britain is one of four countries, along with France, Holland and the US, that Duvel is imported to.

'You could think that's a strange strategy because these are countries where beer consumption is declining. But they are all beer-drinking countries where people are tending to drink less and better, so we think we have the possibility to grow.

The brewery says that Duvel's distinctive flavour comes from the Saaz and Styrian Golding hops, blended with barley from the Champagne region.

Add extra sugar before bottling

Unusually, extra sugar and yeast are added just before bottling. This means that fermentation continues in the bottle while it is stored; the beer is kept at 24°C in the 'warm cellars, then transferred to the 'cold cellars for another six weeks where it is stored at 5°C.

As a result, extracts of yeast remain in the bottle when it is poured into the branded glass. The extra yeast gives the beer an especially frothy head, and the three-dimensional 'D emblem on the base of the bespoke glass helps to maintain the head by stimulating the bubbles.

'A big foam head is normal for Duvel and we recommend it, says Moortgat. But he concedes: 'It's not so easy to bring this message over to Britain but it's absolutely necessary.

In one sense, Duvel's introduction into the UK could be seen as something of a homecoming.

Michel Moortgat's grandfather Albert, who became the brewer at the plant in around 1900, created Duvel's predecessor after being inspired by English ales brought to Belgium by British soldiers during the First World War. Albert somehow managed to get hold of some McEwans yeast from Scotland, and used this to create what was initially called Victory Ale, to commemorate the end of the First World War. In 1923 the name was changed after Dutch shoemaker Van De Wouwer described the beer as 'een echten Duvel 'a true devil. Cultivated yeast from the original McEwans sample is still used in the beer today.

With its stylish branded glasses, Duvel fits into the rising trend for speciality imported beers that are sipped and appreciated rather than gulped from a pint glass.

But chief operating officer Daniel Krug dismisses the suggestion that Duvel should be the preserve of the 'trendy bar fraternity. He argues that it is 'a beer that can be placed in any bar, but he emphasises the importance of training bar staff to communicate the benefits of its style.

'The UK is so up for accepting foreign beers. Inbev did a good job there with Stella, but that's becoming a mainstream beer. We can come with speciality beers in bottles and the door is open. But training is important in a country where special glasses are not always known and foam is seen as theft. He adds: 'Duvel is unique, which makes it difficult to sell, but once people try it they are very loyal. After a while we get bars contacting us directly to get the beer, because it is a must-have.

Perfect as a beer with food

Duvel is billed as a beer that fits into two other modern trends in Britain. Firstly, beer with food. Stevenson explains how he had attended a number of tasting events involving British beer in the past, and Duvel's fizzy, aperitif-like quality gives it a different appeal to British ales and bitters. 'Duvel does go very well with certain types of food, like asparagus and seafood. The usage of styles and tastes is probably greater compared to beer from Britain.

The brewers claim Duvel is one of the 'flag bearers of the beer with food revolution. A number of renowned chefs have matched Duvel with their dishes. Examples include Asparagus in Duvel, Crab soup with Duvel, and Duvel fricassee.

The other area is women drinkers. Stevenson explains that Duvel is attractive to women because of its 'Champagne-like quality and 'subtle flavour. This is helped by the branded glasses, which are more appealing to women than a traditional British pint. 'A few women I know don't mind the taste of beer, it's just the presentation. The glass is important, in this respect, for Duvel.

Vedett's personalised touch for in-your-face marketing

Vedett, another blond beer from the Duvel Moortgat Brewery, is employing an off-the-wall marketing technique that allows drinkers to get their faces on bottles.

Bars that stock Vedett in Britain have been given a digital camera and special printer. Customers have the chance to get their photo stuck onto the 330ml bottles.

'We took the decision to concentrate our launch efforts on the on-trade because we believe the opportunity for customers to have their picture on a bottle will prove irresistible, says Nigel Stevenson, sales manager of Vedett importer Clay Beers.

Drinkers can also upload a photo of themselves onto the Vedett website. Visitors to the site get to vote for their favourite face and the top 100 are chosen for the bottles that get distributed throughout Belgium, Britain and elsewhere.

Stevenson says the aim is eventually to have a page just for British drinkers to upload their photos, to increase the likelihood that punters will see their own face staring back at them when they order a bottle.

'It started in quite a small area of Belgium, where the chance of seeing the name on the label is quite high, he explains.

Vedett is being rolled out into the UK now, and has been taken up by stylish bars and restaurants, including Fuller's Fine Lines outlets and other venues such as Hell Bar in Shoreditch, Bush Bar & Grill in Shepherds Bush, and three Bluu Bars.

Other unusual marketing techniques have been employed for the beer in Belgium, including 60 concrete mixers featuring massive rotating bottles of Vedett, driving around the country. The brand is supported by a collection of enigmatic slogans such as 'Penguins know why and 'Tastes like milk. But Stevenson explains that they have no plans for a marketing campaign for Vedett, but will instead rely on word of mouth.